Nc 24 won't start
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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- Senior Member
- Posts: 1916
- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
- Bike owned: VFR400
- Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia
Re: Nc 24 won't start
If you are saying a bad connection increases current flow and thus more heat in the wires, this is incorrect. The opposite is true, bad connections reduce current flow and yellow wires will run cooler. The yellow wires may be hotter ("hot") at the point of the poor connection but that is due to heat transfer from the heat source at the poor connection. Wires are usually more heavily dis-colored close to the poor connection, again because this is the point of highest temperature.
Agree "hot" is a subjective term but I was trying to placate dudleygareth's concern about his hot yellow wires, he may still need to examine the remainder of the charging system wiring for poor connections.
A well functioning charging system, including good connections, flows the most current and thus the yellow wires run at their highest temperature. This applies to all wires in the charging system. The "good" connections should not be a source of heat.
Agree "hot" is a subjective term but I was trying to placate dudleygareth's concern about his hot yellow wires, he may still need to examine the remainder of the charging system wiring for poor connections.
A well functioning charging system, including good connections, flows the most current and thus the yellow wires run at their highest temperature. This applies to all wires in the charging system. The "good" connections should not be a source of heat.
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Re: Nc 24 won't start
I believe I said that the increased resistance of the plug due to poor contacts with either the spades or the wires to the spades will cause more localized heating and melting of the plug / wires.
If we were dealing with a pure constant voltage source then the end result would be less amps and cooler wires perhaps (apart from the high restive load which will generate localized heat).
However since we are talking about a system fed from a permanent magnet alternator, these typically operate in constant current fashion... the voltage will increase to keep the current the same.
5.0 ohms of resistance at 10 amps requires 500 watts at 50 volts
2.0 ohms of resistance at 10 amps required 200 watts at 20 volts
I apologize that this explanation is a bit piss poor but maybe you get the idea.
If you want a practical experiment try cutting the 3 yellow wires and inserting a 1 ohm resistor in series with each and then replacing them with 10 ohm resistors and seeing which ones get hotter the quickest.
To sum up this rather long winded affair, if your stator wires are in poor connection to the plug or the plug terminals themselves are bad then they melt, as seen on many bikes. Do the amps go down as resistance increases or does the voltage go up to maintain this?
It's kind of a moot point as the end result is the same through whatever mechanism. Some warmth to the wires is probably normal but if your noticing burned plug / melted / discolored wires then there is a high chance you have a poor connection from either corroded plug, loose contacts in the plug or oxidized wire connected to the plug terminals.
If we were dealing with a pure constant voltage source then the end result would be less amps and cooler wires perhaps (apart from the high restive load which will generate localized heat).
However since we are talking about a system fed from a permanent magnet alternator, these typically operate in constant current fashion... the voltage will increase to keep the current the same.
5.0 ohms of resistance at 10 amps requires 500 watts at 50 volts
2.0 ohms of resistance at 10 amps required 200 watts at 20 volts
I apologize that this explanation is a bit piss poor but maybe you get the idea.
If you want a practical experiment try cutting the 3 yellow wires and inserting a 1 ohm resistor in series with each and then replacing them with 10 ohm resistors and seeing which ones get hotter the quickest.
To sum up this rather long winded affair, if your stator wires are in poor connection to the plug or the plug terminals themselves are bad then they melt, as seen on many bikes. Do the amps go down as resistance increases or does the voltage go up to maintain this?
It's kind of a moot point as the end result is the same through whatever mechanism. Some warmth to the wires is probably normal but if your noticing burned plug / melted / discolored wires then there is a high chance you have a poor connection from either corroded plug, loose contacts in the plug or oxidized wire connected to the plug terminals.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:55 pm
- Bike owned: VFR400
- Location: Blue Mountain NSW Australia
Re: Nc 24 won't start
"Hot" I agreed was a relative term but I assumed dudleygareth may have been unexpected surprised at the temperature of the yellow wires, not the connection.
Your comment "if they are heating up its becuase there is resistance across the wires", implied a poor connection at some point in the wire run could further elevate the temperature over the length of wire.
" A correctly working charging system won't in normal conditions pull enough current through the wires to melt or discolor them", appears to contrast with the constant current generator theory and the operation of the short circuit type rect/reg fitted to the NC30/35. Surely maximum available current at any point in time flows through the three yellow wires, which is the reason the connections and the rect/reg have such a hard time and need to be maintained, with this type of charging system.
Your comment "if they are heating up its becuase there is resistance across the wires", implied a poor connection at some point in the wire run could further elevate the temperature over the length of wire.
" A correctly working charging system won't in normal conditions pull enough current through the wires to melt or discolor them", appears to contrast with the constant current generator theory and the operation of the short circuit type rect/reg fitted to the NC30/35. Surely maximum available current at any point in time flows through the three yellow wires, which is the reason the connections and the rect/reg have such a hard time and need to be maintained, with this type of charging system.
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Re: Nc 24 won't start
Hi thanks magg and neosophist for all the advice.Im working up country now so I'm able too work on bike at the moment
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