Nc 24 won't start

dudleygareth · Post by **dudleygareth** » Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:23 am

Hi guys hope you all well my bike stood for a well but don't want too start and it does the following.

Wen the ignition is on the neutral and oil lights flicker and gives you a bright light than dim light .Bike don't want too start only clicks when I press start switch.
The last time I started the bike there came smoke from the rectifier area is it at all possible that rectifier is damaged.How do I test it?

Many thanks

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magg · Post by **magg** » Mon Apr 17, 2017 11:01 am

Dud rect/reg and possibly/probably dud battery. Disconnect rect/reg, recharge or fit new battery and try staring again. If successful best to replace rect/reg.

Post by **Neosophist** » Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:48 pm

yep as magg has pointed out.. seems to be classic electrical woes.

how old is battery. was it kept fully charged?

exccess heat / smoke is a sign that reg is beign overloaded and dumping too much power.. this is usually either.

knackered battery not absorbing charge
generator failure giving out too much voltage.

using a multimeter you can do some basic checks of the reg/rec without the bike running, does it still start?

if it does easy to check on bike.

you need a good full charged battery on the bike.. an old sulphated battery can ruin a reg/rec even a new one.

you need to measure battery voltage at idle and 5000rpm with / without lights.

anything over 15 volts and the reg/rec is shot and needs replacing.

no change in voltage then eithet the reg/rec has failed open or the genny has failed or both.

genny can be tested too.

also make sure the few earths are in good clean condition while working on the eletrical system to save pain in arse later one.. only a handful

dudleygareth · Post by **dudleygareth** » Tue Apr 18, 2017 9:43 am

Hi thanks for the advice,the bike does not start at the moment the last time it started it missed like it's on two cylinders,It doesn't want too start at the moment. The battery was always on charge but I left it off charge for a about 3 weeks.

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dudleygareth · Post by **dudleygareth** » Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:29 pm

Hi gents I got bike started while jumping it idles but sounds like it has I slight miss and the 3 yellow wires off rec/reg is getting hot any advise.

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Post by **Neosophist** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:50 am

is the connection in the plug of the wires dirty / corroded?

this will be the biggest cause of them getting hot?

dudleygareth · Post by **dudleygareth** » Sat Apr 22, 2017 6:53 am

They are still fine but still heating up when it's idling.I checked the ac voltages from genry and it's all fine.All the plugs I've changed already.

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Post by **Neosophist** » Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:31 pm

if they are heating up its becuase there is resistance across the wires.

are the wires to the spades they go to ok?

if in dobut replce the plug, but the wires must be soldered.

magg · Post by **magg** » Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:57 am

Wires will be "hot" as a consequence of current flow and is a fact of life.

Post by **Neosophist** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 1:00 pm

magg wrote:Wires will be "hot" as a consequence of current flow and is a fact of life.

But you are failing to address how "hot" is normal. Joules law does state that current flowing through resistance will produce heat but how "hot" is too "hot"?

A correctly working charging system won't in normal conditions pull enough current through the wires to melt or discolor them. Some warmth is probably normal, i've never measured it with a thermometer (project for the future?)

As i've mentioned above the block is a weakpoint on the system, many people have experienced burnt wires / charred blocks, myself included. It's an unshielded connection that is exposed to the elements, over the years they can corrode, oxidise, same goes for the connection of the wires to the spades.

Anytime I work on a faulty VFR charging system I always replace the generator plugs with weatherproof ampex style connectors with soldered wires to reduce the chance of poor connectivity, never had one fail since and not had any discoloured / melted wiring.

Plugs with corroded wires / correded contacts soon melt.

I knew a fella repaired a plug once, stripped the genny wires back to good copper, crimped then on and had no troubles for about a week until it melted again.. the copper had oxidised around the crimps and melted the plug... hence why most replacement plug manufacturers say you must solder the wires onto the new terminals and not just crimp.

If it's getting hot enough to melt / discolour the wires then you probably have a poor connection somewhere, maybe some corroded wires to the spades

Some warmth might be normal depending on load of the system.

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