VFR400 OIL LIGHT and braded lines

[GIXERMARK0]

HI brought a 1995 vfr400 a couple of months ago cracking little bike
unfortunatly i wrote of my gixer600 k2 race bike thats why iv got this as im nearly 50 and the old legs are playing up

any whay i have changed to a 17inch back wheel raised the back rebuilt the forks (rick oliver :))
took the bike out to day and once warm the oil light comes on at tick over and goes off at about 4-5k and stays off
but comes back on and stays on at tick over

its had a full service with siloline comp 10w40 so is this oil the correct grade or do i need another grade

or other fault
oil pressure switch
oil pump
bike runs fine sweet as a nut just dont want to ride it just in case it goes bang


my other question is with sp2 calipers and a gixer radial master any one know who can moke brake lines up

cheers mark

[Delboy]

Oil viscocity is correct, is it semi synthetic?
I think you've answered your own questions as though you now what could be the cause of possible low oil pressure.
Try changing the oil pressure switch as a cheap 'fix' other wise it's the oil pump.

[GIXERMARK0]

HI NO its fully synthetic

[Delboy]

As long as it's bike oil specific and not car shouldnt make a difference to low oil pressure.

[GIXERMARK0]

hi
definatly bike oil
iv seen the results of an engine run on car oil (not nice)

i forgot to mention the oil light never came on with the old oil

right off to find a pressure switch

thanks mark

[Delboy]

As for your lines, I use Pirtek, take your old fittings along and they can make anything fit anything

[GIXERMARK0]

pirtek are they in coventry ?

[Delboy]

They are UK national, the company I work for use them.
Try these .......... http://www.pirtek.co.uk/service-centre- ... entry.aspx

Might not be the cheapest but I have never had a problem with quality.

[GIXERMARK0]

thats brill just up the road :)

[Chrissy_J]

If the oil light is working it means the switch is operating, but at the wrong time. If you're certain you don't have a leak, and that you aren't burning oil, it's possible that the oil thins excessively when it's warm... it works and it's not damaging the engine, but the switch can't 'see' it, if that makes sense.
Someone in the trade told me that older engines shouldn't be run on full-synth oil because of this reason- the engines are sufficiently low-tech enough to use standard or part-synth oil because it's just... denser, or something...

Whatever, I'm sure someone here has a better explanation.

Before you start pulling it apart, is it worth draining the oil (keeping it safe for refilling) and replacing it with some cheap stuff? Just as a trial, like...

Also, I've had brake and clutch lines custom-made by Earl's, they're pretty damn good IMO...

Earl's custom brake hose creator