Whats the best oil? NC29

[jake]

you use fully synth in a race bike???! you must be rich!
semi all the way, but im kawasaki, so would'nt know about them there hondas....not much happens down zxr bit these days so lonely

[binge]

Not true.. there is nothing in manual about oil type. Just
Oil type: API grade SE, SF or SG
Oil viscosity: SAE 10W40

I used this season Repsol 10W40 4T Moto Synthetic and no any trouble with clutch. On CB400SF we used MOTUL 300 V 4T Factoru Line 10W40, no any issue with clutch as well

Well I put it in my CBR and the bike couldnt pull in a brothel.
It seriously f**ked it up.

[PARUS]

Guy, I'm not sure about prices in UK, but here in Ukraine
Fully Synthetic oil cost
Repsol - 55$ (28GBP)
Motul - 80$ (42 GBP)

Petrol - 1 litre/95 - 1,2$ (0,6 GBP)

[leopard_pagan]

"Petrol - 1 litre/95 - 1,2$ (0,6 GBP)"
barstards!!!!

[Matchlessman]

I ran my 400 on fully synth for ages with the OE clutchplates and it seemed ok. When i changed the clutch, i put in EBC plates. The new clutch didnt last that long before it started slipping.

Ive now put in a new clutch and will be using semi synth.

[PARUS]

ABOUT OIL
Quite often have to watch the battle on bike forums about using different oils in motorcycles.
Arguments for motorbike and auto oil you can hear the most versatile, but in fact the correct advice sink in a "stream of consciousness", formed by whom is unclear. Stories about broken clutch and motors, all additives, etc.. probably heard everything.
But in reality bike oils is not exist. And now I will explain why.
Although, if spread without equivocation, it is worth mentioning two phenomena of motorbike oil:
1) At any old Harley allowed only the use of the corporate oil "Grade60" (because "large dragonflies" drive valves destroyed in the event the use of modern oils… Hello Harley!);
2) Exotic four endure Zaberg beginning 90 x (without fuel pump = specials. oil + Replacement of oil every thousand!);

If you do not above motorcycles, then you can forget about motorbike oil
It's certification. Take for example the rules API (if you want, you can go on and on and ACEA JASO). Roughly speaking, the rules tied to generations motors to motor issued in the early 90 x (for example) and calculated under certain characteristics of oil could count on him and now (or equivalent in today's performance). What we know about the rules API:
SD - for petrol engines produced before 1970.
SE - for the same, starting from 1971 (may substitute oils SC or SD. Gives better protection from rust and education "plasticine" at low temperatures.
SF - starting in 1980, can replace SC… SE. Slower aging and better protects the engine from wear and tear.
SG - from 1989, better resist the formation of any deposits in engines, better protection against wear and rust
SH - c 1993, and testing the limits coincide with the class SG, but the method of testing more aggressive.
SJ - a new class of oils, introduced in 1996. Prepared in accordance with stricter requirements for emissions and operational characteristics of new engines.
I will now be SL, the next iteration of SJ.
In what the difference and what to pay attention? The fact is that antiwear additives (something there with phosphates and zinc, can not remember) class SG after combustion in the engine severely protests of "green" and catalysts. And limiting the number of these components in their oil began to replace the other, seeking diversion in the increasingly tightening environmental standards and tried to reduce fuel using in engines, etc.. It did have to mention euro-standards of ACEA, as having direct relevance to the case. They just regulate the existence of any "fuel" in oil additives, and it is these additives are threatening to "slip" clutch of a motorcycle. What is interesting about this specification - regulated oil viscosity at cold and “hot” engine? According to the idea - the slurry oil on operating, thickly his films, less water resistance and accordingly consumption of gasoline. But this is not meant for motors (big-volume air cooling, for example) there is a risk of increased wear and even wedge. And there are engines, which are precisely calculated to such "light" oil, and the usual long live.
There are five categories of ACEA for petrol engines.
A1: oil-"economizer" energy, for engines developed under low oil viscosity and weak friction (to avoid motorcycles)
A2: general-purpose oils, for most engines with conventional oil replacement intervals.
A3: oil highest category, for hard-used motors (or high-power motors), with superior stability. Also - big oil replacement intervals (like we need for Moto!).
A4: for direct injection gasoline engines.
A5: oil excellent stability for high-power motors that offer extremely low coefficient of friction. Used only in specially designed motors for him! (must be clearly stated in manual).
Such is the case. Gulf oil API SG we have the assurance of the absence of any "liberators energy", but that harm the ecology and refuse from the latest developments in the field of protection of engine wear. Gulf SJ have to run the risk of "liberator of energy," which “slip” clutch. That, incidentally, could be back then “soak off” conventional oil-class SG, do not worry if it “slip” (well, unplanned change of oil, ah-yay-yay). But to be absolutely sure, absolutely - look for oil on the API and certified by ACEA, and look to make it ACEA A3. Then no hot boxes clutch can not be afraid.

All "motorbikes oils", which I kept in the hands, conform to the norms API SG. Tobey motor oil specifications nothing of such a "motorcycle" is no different and likely have bee filed from the same barrel. But faced with something as foolish expensive. However, the demand rise proposal.
I view myself SJ A3, clutch and engine fell themselves admirably
Yet, incidentally, is on snacks. Peugeot sold millions of its 104 and 205 with a total engine crankcase and boxes, and they go perfectly without any motorbike oils. So if we have someone and having trouble, only because of the use of oil entirely too Crap ..
Another is perhaps walk on mineral water, semi synthetic and synthetics.
I’m personally doesn’t semi synthetic. What is semi synthetic - an attempt to make synthetic from mineral by adding additives from synthetics. And there is this additives for certification may be up to 30% of the volume of oil. Synthetics to achieve the same effect-that is fewer (but for how much - has not found yet).
But not frightening, no particular crime, just semi synthetic still not as durable as synthetics, plus affected by restrictions mineral viscosity.

About viscosity.

Everyone knows that the designation 10w40 first digit means the viscosity at cold, second - on the viscosity of hot. But then, dog!
The second figure, we said, how quickly will lose the oil viscosity when it warms! And the lower the viscosity, the more oil burned in defamation engine (or just in the heat engine with large gaps).
For old engines, it makes sense to look for oil * w50 - it loses all viscosity less! Engine oil will take less noticeable.
You can ride a sport bike for mineral and old apparatus for synthetics, if correctly to choose a viscosity when working temperature * *!
But! If you buy mineral (semi synthetic) with such characteristics then you will find only 20w50
It should frighten the first digit, viscosity at cold. What the midst of a cold oil on the longer will oil starvation at startup engine. But synthetics 5w50 Sales fairly easy to find. And only synthetics can be so cold for liquid, and maintain the desired viscosity at operating temperatures. Case just plug in the temperature, the synthetics is the best. Well, and the interval replacement and cleaning properties, of course
Another myth - that the synthetics flows faster, and on cold engines suffer from oil starvation. Nonsense. Synthetics -how times longer remains on the walls and on the parts, it is more " sticky ".

[PARUS]

Sorry for English, I'm not so good in it.

[coops408]

i stick to the semi thanks to all :D