ignition barrel removal
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:50 am
ignition barrel removal
Has anyone removed the ignition barrel/key and replaced with a switch, which I want to do for my race bike- vfr400, 92 model. Has anyone got a wiring diagram or instructions on how to do it? Thanks
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 6:13 am
- Location: Perth, Aust.
Re: ignition barrel removal
I have, after a failed theft attempt...
It's devastatingly easy and I can't believe they failed to hotwire the thing.
This is off the top of my head for now, I can't recall colours:
From the back of the barrel come 3 wires, one is 12V supply, one runs power back to the fuse box, and one enables the fan. The last two wires both switch on at the same time when you turn the key, so I just spliced them together.
These 3 wires all run to a (red?) plug partway down the RHS of the bike, which makes things even easier.
Simply cut and solder, it really is very simple. You want your switch rated to at least 30A, and preferably weatherproof. Definitely solder the connection, for better current transmission.
My switch is a fancy one which lights up when switched on, so I had to also splice in to an earth wire, but it's not really necessary. I mounted it on the RHS infill panel about 2/3 of the way along, had to drill a ~12mm hole.
If you like I can go more in depth once I get home and check everything, but it is seriously easy if you have any know-how at all, so give it a shot!
It's devastatingly easy and I can't believe they failed to hotwire the thing.
This is off the top of my head for now, I can't recall colours:
From the back of the barrel come 3 wires, one is 12V supply, one runs power back to the fuse box, and one enables the fan. The last two wires both switch on at the same time when you turn the key, so I just spliced them together.
These 3 wires all run to a (red?) plug partway down the RHS of the bike, which makes things even easier.
Simply cut and solder, it really is very simple. You want your switch rated to at least 30A, and preferably weatherproof. Definitely solder the connection, for better current transmission.
My switch is a fancy one which lights up when switched on, so I had to also splice in to an earth wire, but it's not really necessary. I mounted it on the RHS infill panel about 2/3 of the way along, had to drill a ~12mm hole.
If you like I can go more in depth once I get home and check everything, but it is seriously easy if you have any know-how at all, so give it a shot!
- Cammo
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- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: ignition barrel removal
I used the kill switch, it's robust and looks factory.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 6:13 am
- Location: Perth, Aust.
Re: ignition barrel removal
I decided agaisnt the Killswitch as i thought was only protected by a 10 or 15amp fuse?
The wires were much thinner, as they merely allow a 'yes' signal thru to the coils...
There was also some other reason i couldn't do it, to do with the addition of a relay (which would never have worked in the first place)
The wires were much thinner, as they merely allow a 'yes' signal thru to the coils...
There was also some other reason i couldn't do it, to do with the addition of a relay (which would never have worked in the first place)
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:50 am
Re: ignition barrel removal
Thanks Mockery- racing this weekend so i will give it a go later. Sounds pretty staight forward but I am a complete numpty when it comes to electrics.
- royster81
- NWAA Supporter
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- Bike owned: VFR400R-L NC30 CBR400RR-R NC29
- Location: Belfast,Northern Ireland
Re: ignition barrel removal
same here but we recabled the switchStickshift wrote:I used the kill switch, it's robust and looks factory.
It's not having what you want but wanting what you've got....Loud ,Proud and Modified ....