nc24 air filter and choke cable

David · Post by **David** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 10:02 pm

Hi

I am trying to get a NC24 up and running.
I've been told a new battery and choke cable should get it going.

I've just bought both of these.
The battery look easy enough to replace, but the choke cable is a bit different as the old one doesn't appear to be there, I think it has broken so I can't see how it attaches. On end has a right angle and nut fixing while the other is just the cable end, not sure how this connected.

Can I use The NC30/35 haynes manual to do the connection at the carbs.
Do I need to remove the complete air filter assembly, I've taken the lid of (there only appears to be a wire mesh bit here, it doesn't look like a proper air filter - is this right?, do I need to take the bottom section off and will that give me access to where the choke cable is attached.

At the left handle I have a choke lever that just slides with no friction as the cable is not attached.
Is it just a matter of opening this section and routing the cable down to the carb section

Apologies for these basic questions, but this is my first proper bike and I'm a real novice when it comes to working on it.

Thank you
.......................................................

christ044 · Post by **christ044** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:38 pm

You should see one of these (see link) when you lift the filter housing

http://shop.wemoto.com/pictures.dyn?u=25336qqq25656

I found fitting the choke cable on mine a right pain in the ass, you need to take the air filter housing completely off and the front coils too, be carefull with them i found that they pull on the temp. sender cable!

You should then see the choke lever arm at the front of the carbs, and just slightly to the right of this is a small clamp that holds the outer cable, the other end is just a case of taking the two screws out of the handlebar switch gear and you should see where it goes.

David · Post by **David** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 3:18 pm

Thanks, I'll give this a try.

My only concern is the choke cable I got from DavidSilverSpares might not be right. I have checked the part no with them and they say it is for the NC24, but
It has a normal cable end on one side, the other side has a right angle and nut attachment which looks like would fit the NC30 according to the NC30 Haynes manual, but maybe I'm wrong.

I'll take a photo once I've got the air filter box off

Cheers

christ044 · Post by **christ044** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 5:58 pm

Iv just fitted my choke cable today, it does have a metal bend at the handlebar end and very small nipple too (ohh err misses!) its not too bad to fit, mind you my bike isn't full built yet so that helps.

Good luck mate

David · Post by **David** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 7:31 pm

Thank you.

I have attached some pics.
Is this the right cable? where does the end with the thread and nut go.
The reason I am at a loss is there is no choke cable at present on the bike.
I can't see where this would screw into on the handle bar

Cheers

christ044 · Post by **christ044** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 8:59 pm

Looks like the correct cable, it goes in a hole at the rear right hand side under the left hand switch (iv just tried to take a picture, but mines on the bike and you can't see it!) Just take the two screws out and you should see where it goes.

Post by **Neosophist** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:23 am

Thats the right cable.

The 3 middle digits refer to what bike its for.. ML0 is NC24, the NC30 is MR8.

You'll have to remove the 2 screws from underneath the switchgear, separate it. Be careful though as there are wires so it won't come apart all the way, but enough to get to the choke mech, now leave that and..

1. Remove the tank, 3 x 10mm bolts. Be careful with the fuel and vaccumn lines but remove them too.
2. Remove the air cleaner top, 7 x Philips No 2 screws. Pull of the pipes and note where the came from..
3. Remove the air filter and then the 5 x No 2 Philips screws and remove the bottom part of the filter housing.
4. The two coils for the front cylinders are infront of the carbs and in the way of the choke, remove the 2 x 8mm bolts on the plate their attatched too and move it out of the way.. its hard to move due to the spark plug HT cables but you can move it enough to see the choke lever.
5. At the front of the carbs you'll see the choke lever, the cable is secured with 1 x philips no 2 screw, remove it, twist the cable round to get it out and then unscrew and remove from the switchgear.

Reverse :)

David · Post by **David** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:28 am

Thank you all for your help, I have managed to install the new Choke cable, had a bit of trouble with the ignitoin coils, I put everything back then retested the choke and it felt very stiff, used a small torch and could see one of these coils lying on top of the choke lever, which might be the reason the old one snapped.

I had to take everthing off again, then discovered one of the coils was mounted on the bracket the wrong way round causing it to stick out further than it should, so I corrected this and put it all back again....Phew!!

My next step is to install the new battery I just bought.
It is a Rob Hunter Dry charged, I just replaced like for like.

I thought I would fill up the cells, leave for half an hour then charge before installing, but I only have an old Halfords 8amp battery charger.

It does have over charge protection, but I've read somewhere that I will need a motorcycle battery charger or It needs to deliver 10% of load.

I'm trying to save spending on a charger as I've just forked out £32 for the new battery.

Will this charger be ok to charge?

Cheers

Post by **Neosophist** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:44 pm

do NOT charge the battery with that charger else it wont' last very long.

Motorbike batteries have very thin internal plates compared to a car battery.

Ideally you want to charge them at no more than 1amp.

You can't beat a 'datatool' or similar motorcycle charger.

ie... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Datatool-Multi-St ... 240%3A1318" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They'll charge the battery in multiple stages and come with their own quick connector, so you can leave the bike on charge when its not in use and it will maintain the battery for you.

Battery charging is a controversial subject among enthusiasts, but from what I can gather the best thing to do is put the acid in and let if fully charge with a motorbike smart charger then your good to go.

I'd invest in the above type charger tho, will be handy in the long run.

PS: How much did the battery set you back?

http://www.tayna.co.uk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; are good on batteries.. I got a Varta YB9L-B (Propper battery) for £18

David · Post by **David** » Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:11 am

Installed new battery, engine turned over but not starting.
Measured battery - 12.29V, have read difficult to start if not above 12.4V

Bought a Motorcycle battery charger and charged overnight - 12.8V
Installed but still no start.

I supposse next step is to get a spark plug and connect the spark plug leads to this plug while earthing against frame and try the inignition to see if there is a spark.

I also read you can spray some carb cleaner down the carbs and try and start it that way just to check it's not a fuel problem.
As I've never looked at the carbs before, where do I spray the carb cleaner or fuel to check this.

Does this sound like the next logical plan, or should I be checking something else first.

Cheers

nc24 air filter and choke cable

nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable

Re: nc24 air filter and choke cable