Hello, All, and a question.

SWIFT · Post by **SWIFT** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 4:50 am

:) Hello, Everybody,
Just registered because I've an NC30 (Japanese), and your topics always seem to be interesting and objective, without the usual backbiting of other forums!
Please, if I may I'd like to do a bit of brain picking for starters.
I've read several posts that warn of stewing the switchgear, cabling etc. if higher wattage (head) lamps are used, without using a relay.
Obviously the use of relays is always desirable where higher currents are concerned, and it's always made me wonder why Honda used such a weird wattage in the first place, all for the sake of a relay. Presumably our Japanese counterparts have far better night vision than us!!
Just so that I am not branded an entirely "fair weather rider", I occasionally use the 'bike for work (mostly nights) and one or two of the roads are far from good on the way.
The pathetic and woefully inadequate dipped beam doesn't inspire a great deal of confidence, when coming down off a perfectly acceptable main beam, and has caused extreme sphincter tightening on more than one occasion!!
I have a pair of conversion bases, and the lamps are available easily.
My question is this:
Has anyone ever drawn up detailed instructions of how this is done, such as diagram, cable size needed, connections to be made (or disconnected!), ideal location for the relay and all that sort of thing? A sort of step-by-step guide, as you might say.
Nice to meet you - hope for some replys soon -
"SWIFT"

keithcar · Post by **keithcar** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 6:15 am

Not sure why the japanese bikes have lower wattage low beam lights (35w), but here is a diagram and some instructions on where to put the relay. I intend to do this mod to my bike as well.. have all the partss for it just need to find time.

http://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/NC ... mRelay.htm

fastdruid · Post by **fastdruid** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:36 pm

Hi swift, I suspect this was something to do with japanese law at the time, although saying that it's not something limited to jap imports, my 2000 SV650S for example came as new with odd 45/60w sized bulbs. Thankfully unlike the NC35 they're std fitment H4 so 55/60w bulbs slot straight in.

I also stuck in bigger power feeds[1] to the relays when I altered NC35#1, don't know how much of a real difference it made but the switch didn't fry again afterwards and the lights seemed brighter.

Druid

[1] AKA thicker wire. :D

SWIFT · Post by **SWIFT** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:13 pm

:) .....thanks, guys, for your replies.
Obviously a worthwhile addition to the 'bike. Must be a cheaper option than perpetually buying new switch gear!
Shame the little wiring diagrams aren't a bit bigger, as the picture would "paint a thousand words", particularly to someone no too familiar with the machine at present.
Thanks again, may post further if I get in a tizzy doing the job - I've got umpteen relays of varying ampereages, and if nobody has heard of them, I have found the best source of cable, (from building kit cars etc. and usually they keep most of the slightly more unusual colours, with and without traces), to be Vehicle Wiring Products. Easily found on the internet by putting "VWP" in the search box.
Cheers -
SWIFT

fastdruid · Post by **fastdruid** » Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:24 pm

While VWP are great and do lots postage can be a killer and it may be cheaper to nip to the local motor factors to get some (even halfords), you can even get a 'relay' kit for spot/fog lights which is basically what you want and could be cheaper and easier.

ISTR I got the wire from maplins.

Druid

SWIFT · Post by **SWIFT** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:05 am

Hi, Druid -
I am just one of those people that try to keep everything the same as original if I can, (fussy) because it has paid off in the past if problems occur, and when they do it's a bit easier than the time we used to fit alarm/immobilisers where all cables were black!!
But thanks for the comments, I really like the constructive comments by members of 400greybike!
I do agree VWP postage is a killer, but their cable is of excellent quality.
I don't ue H******s, because they don't have a clue about most things, except perhaps stereos that make more noise than yours and my 'bikes at full bore with no mufflers. Particularly as our 'bikes have engines, and staff who probably havn't even mastered Scalextrix yet!
Local Motor Factors are my preference, but good ones of those are becoming hard to find nowadays. Luckkily my local one are a good lot.
Cheers -
SWIFT

Post by **Neosophist** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:18 pm

you can still buy the japanese bulbs.

My 1987 NC24 came with H4 as standard but only has one bulb.. it might be a law concerning 2 bulbs?

But then again, the NC30 has two different types of alternator, i think the UK is the same as the NC24 (higher output) so maybe its to cope with the H4's?

this is all speculation of course.

fastdruid · Post by **fastdruid** » Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:32 am

I doubt it's as simple as the alternator, after all the jap NC30 still has to cope with 2x60w on high beam so no reason it shouldn't cope with 2x55w on low.

Druid

SWIFT · Post by **SWIFT** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 4:59 pm

...thank you all for your continuing input on this subject.
I think I'll hedge my bets, and replace the original lamps until such times as I get time to fit a relay. It must be the better option than having the lights/dip switch go when you most need it!!
Without getting too technical, as I see it the alternator output isn't really going to make much difference if only fitting 60/55 watters as I am.
Anything greater (100/80's, for example), I agree, could be a completely different kettle of fish, perhaps involving a complete rewire of both circuits, and the need for higher output alternator etc. etc.
Apart from being technically illegal, (for road use in the U.K anyway), I suspect the reflectors and plastics may get the hump from the greater heat generated.
As it is the fitting of LED'S wherever possible could save the amps needed for upping the dipped headlight power anyway.
I know this from previous experience, and provided good quality ones are used, they rarely, if ever need replacing. (Cheapo ones from Flea-bay etc. are no better than ordinary lamps, and go pop much the same - I've proved it when a friend bought some!!) The ones from UltraLeds might be pricey, but do last.
Just the stop/tail 21/5w's consume around 4 amps when both lit, so by my reckoning the extra 3-odd amps taken by the 55watt dipped beam is compensated for, because LED'S consume next to nothing. (a few milliamps, if my memory serves me well)
I just wish there was a specific diagram, showing colours used, and pictures in a step-by-step sequence.
I tried enlarging the one that was kindly left on one post but it gets all fuzzy and unreadable by the time it gets anywhere near big enough!
If I'm smart enough I might get 'er indoors to take some piccys as I do it, and post them afterwards, for the use of others wanting to do this. (I'm absolutely hopeless with cameras of any kind!!)
RIDE SAFELY -
SWIFT

fastdruid · Post by **fastdruid** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:10 pm

SWIFT wrote:...thank you all for your continuing input on this subject.
I think I'll hedge my bets, and replace the original lamps until such times as I get time to fit a relay. It must be the better option than having the lights/dip switch go when you most need it!!

The only trouble is getting hold of them, hell the SV650S I struggled to get bulbs for and that's a UK bike!

Without getting too technical, as I see it the alternator output isn't really going to make much difference if only fitting 60/55 watters as I am.

Nope, zero problems from altenator POV.

Anything greater (100/80's, for example), I agree, could be a completely different kettle of fish, perhaps involving a complete rewire of both circuits, and the need for higher output alternator etc. etc.
Apart from being technically illegal, (for road use in the U.K anyway), I suspect the reflectors and plastics may get the hump from the greater heat generated.

I'd say you may as well go HID before you try that.

As it is the fitting of LED'S wherever possible could save the amps needed for upping the dipped headlight power anyway.
I know this from previous experience, and provided good quality ones are used, they rarely, if ever need replacing. (Cheapo ones from Flea-bay etc. are no better than ordinary lamps, and go pop much the same - I've proved it when a friend bought some!!) The ones from UltraLeds might be pricey, but do last.
Just the stop/tail 21/5w's consume around 4 amps when both lit, so by my reckoning the extra 3-odd amps taken by the 55watt dipped beam is compensated for, because LED'S consume next to nothing. (a few milliamps, if my memory serves me well)

They also light noticably quicker, I have one LED and one normal bulb in the VFR750 as the taillight design requires more light than the LED one gives to light the reg-plate. You can see the LED's light before the filament does!

You can replace all the back light bulbs too (with any colour you fancy).

Druid

Hello, All, and a question.

Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.

Re: Hello, All, and a question.