Clutch expert needed
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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- Settled in member
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:01 pm
- Bike owned: VFR 400 R NC30
Clutch expert needed
Hi All,
Here it goes: during a ride, the clutch of my nc30 died, meaning that there was a sudden slack in the clutch lever. The lever became completely loose, there was no resistance when I pulled it in. I could not disengage the clutch to shift gears. The clutch cable was fine (did not snap), and the the lever of the push rod and its spring on the lefs side of the engine were also OK. Adjustment to the cable did not matter. I could not repair it and had to call a trailer
The clutch cover on the right side of the engine was pretty hot.
At home, I decided to take the clutch apart. The lock nut installed by the prev owner was way overtorqued I believe and was once re-used based on the number of indentations. Got it off with an impact. The steel plates were worn and the friction plates thickenss was on the low side of specs. Springs seemed to be in good condition, their stacked height was within specs. The clutch hub, one way clutch, washers were all there, installed in the correct order.
I ordered a kevlar EBC clutch kit (SRK063) that includes kevlar friction plates, new steel plates and new diaphragm springs (claimed to be 10% stronger than stock).
Yesterday, I installed the kevlar friction plates, the new EBC steel plates and the EBC diaphragm springs as described in the Haynes manual. I soaked the plates in oil (Motul 5100) for over an hour before installing as advised by EBC. All parts are installed in the correct order and I torqued the lock nut to 85 Nm per specs. Finally I adjusted the clutch cable at the leve and at the engine side.
Now, there is resistance in the clutch lever and the first 3 clutch plates move (separate) in the hub when I pull the lever. However, the clutch does not seem to fully disengage in 1st gear when I pull in the clutch lever. In 1st gear with the clutch lever fully pulled in, I can hardly push the bike forward as there is resistance and the clutch lifter plate (?) is spinning.
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Can anyone please advise what could cause this and how to remedy it? Or is this sort of normal with new (kevlar?) plates and some brake in is needed? Is it worth trying to revert to the Honda OE springs?
I am new to motorcycles and DIY repair, so any advice is welcome and let me know if you need more details. Due to a dead battery, I did not have a chance to warm up the engine yet and check how it works after running.
Thank you!
Here it goes: during a ride, the clutch of my nc30 died, meaning that there was a sudden slack in the clutch lever. The lever became completely loose, there was no resistance when I pulled it in. I could not disengage the clutch to shift gears. The clutch cable was fine (did not snap), and the the lever of the push rod and its spring on the lefs side of the engine were also OK. Adjustment to the cable did not matter. I could not repair it and had to call a trailer

The clutch cover on the right side of the engine was pretty hot.
At home, I decided to take the clutch apart. The lock nut installed by the prev owner was way overtorqued I believe and was once re-used based on the number of indentations. Got it off with an impact. The steel plates were worn and the friction plates thickenss was on the low side of specs. Springs seemed to be in good condition, their stacked height was within specs. The clutch hub, one way clutch, washers were all there, installed in the correct order.
I ordered a kevlar EBC clutch kit (SRK063) that includes kevlar friction plates, new steel plates and new diaphragm springs (claimed to be 10% stronger than stock).
Yesterday, I installed the kevlar friction plates, the new EBC steel plates and the EBC diaphragm springs as described in the Haynes manual. I soaked the plates in oil (Motul 5100) for over an hour before installing as advised by EBC. All parts are installed in the correct order and I torqued the lock nut to 85 Nm per specs. Finally I adjusted the clutch cable at the leve and at the engine side.
Now, there is resistance in the clutch lever and the first 3 clutch plates move (separate) in the hub when I pull the lever. However, the clutch does not seem to fully disengage in 1st gear when I pull in the clutch lever. In 1st gear with the clutch lever fully pulled in, I can hardly push the bike forward as there is resistance and the clutch lifter plate (?) is spinning.
----
Can anyone please advise what could cause this and how to remedy it? Or is this sort of normal with new (kevlar?) plates and some brake in is needed? Is it worth trying to revert to the Honda OE springs?
I am new to motorcycles and DIY repair, so any advice is welcome and let me know if you need more details. Due to a dead battery, I did not have a chance to warm up the engine yet and check how it works after running.
Thank you!
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- Settled in member
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:19 am
Re: Clutch expert needed
It's an EBC clutch kit, the plates stick to each other when the bike is left for a while, try rocking the bike back and forth with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in, the clutch will probably free off.