Nc30 forks up grade
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Nc30 forks up grade
Hey guys just curious to see Wether you guys think it's a worth while up grade as far as performance purposes. Considering putting nc35 forks on my nc30 but only if it's really worth it.
My current forks are fine but I am using the full amount of suspension travel and preloaded is in all the way as well as dampening. I only weigh 67 kgs.
Would it be better to just pit stiffer Springs in?
Are the nc35 forks thay much better?
Also my vfr forks are the later ones.
Also does it just invoice swapping the Tripple tree and Tripple camp to nc35 ones?
My current forks are fine but I am using the full amount of suspension travel and preloaded is in all the way as well as dampening. I only weigh 67 kgs.
Would it be better to just pit stiffer Springs in?
Are the nc35 forks thay much better?
Also my vfr forks are the later ones.
Also does it just invoice swapping the Tripple tree and Tripple camp to nc35 ones?
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
You need to check sag to determine the best spring rate, then adjust pre-load for ride height. The damping adjustment is rebound dominant so max damping setting will have little affect on dive under braking but strongly affect spring return rate which maybe your "I am using the full amount of suspension travel".
For your light weight, OEM spring rate should be a close match, but until you have sag figures it is all conjecture.
Same approach applies to the rear suspension.
NC35 forks internally are not significantly different to NC30. NC35 offer more rigidity which can be useful in a racing environment.
For your light weight, OEM spring rate should be a close match, but until you have sag figures it is all conjecture.
Same approach applies to the rear suspension.
NC35 forks internally are not significantly different to NC30. NC35 offer more rigidity which can be useful in a racing environment.
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
its been detailed before.
i think you end up with less lock and maybe the stems need changing too as they are different lengths.
you will also need clips and what not to match the new forks.
personally i wouldnt bother as there isnt a great deal of difference in the working of the forks apart from has mentioned that usd forks might have a big more rigidity for racing.
nc30 even though its knocking on 30 years old still has good suspension on it, best thing is to get it refreshed and setup properly.
unless you are a serious racer well setup nc30 stock suspension should be more than adqeuate.
Rick O sells imrpoved springs that will refresh tired springs.. new oil and bushes etc where approperiate with new correct oil and get it all dialed in by somebody who knows how to set suspension up and it should be great.
I had my NC30 forks rebuilt and setup by a local racing shop a couple of years ago, usually I do forks myself but they were doing some other custom stuff for me so I gave them the forks to do as well, set them up for me afterwards too and the bike had so much front end feel was great.
i think you end up with less lock and maybe the stems need changing too as they are different lengths.
you will also need clips and what not to match the new forks.
personally i wouldnt bother as there isnt a great deal of difference in the working of the forks apart from has mentioned that usd forks might have a big more rigidity for racing.
nc30 even though its knocking on 30 years old still has good suspension on it, best thing is to get it refreshed and setup properly.
unless you are a serious racer well setup nc30 stock suspension should be more than adqeuate.
Rick O sells imrpoved springs that will refresh tired springs.. new oil and bushes etc where approperiate with new correct oil and get it all dialed in by somebody who knows how to set suspension up and it should be great.
I had my NC30 forks rebuilt and setup by a local racing shop a couple of years ago, usually I do forks myself but they were doing some other custom stuff for me so I gave them the forks to do as well, set them up for me afterwards too and the bike had so much front end feel was great.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
Ok so I had the sag set up at the track by a suspension company. The said that the springs need changing. They were the ones who adjusted the preloaded and the rebound. Was going to buy new Springs but first wanted to see if the swap was worth while. Also I am planning o. Racing the bike as soon as I get some finances sorted.
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
So what are the front and rear sag figures, what front and rear springs are currently fitted. What viscosity oil are you using in the forks, what pre-load and rebound settings are you using at the rear.
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
my forks feel great with RO kit
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
Ok so the on the rear the pre load is set to just past half way towards being on the side of more pre load. And the dampening is one full turn backed out from all the way in.
And gee tee and ro kit is definitely a good option. Thanks
Not sure what Springs they are as I only bout the bike about 3 months ago. And the static sag on the rear was set to 25 mm. Not sure what he did on the front but probabaly similar.
In the forks I recently put 10 w. Not sure what's in the rear.
And gee tee and ro kit is definitely a good option. Thanks
Not sure what Springs they are as I only bout the bike about 3 months ago. And the static sag on the rear was set to 25 mm. Not sure what he did on the front but probabaly similar.
In the forks I recently put 10 w. Not sure what's in the rear.
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Re: Nc30 forks up grade
"Ok so the on the rear the pre load is set to just past half way towards being on the side of more pre load." not sure what this means.
You need to measure static sag and rider sag at both ends from which you can determine if the spring rates are correct. Then adjust the front and rear pre-load to get the final sag setting.
Damping adjustment will be complicated by the limitation of the adjustments available with the OEM suspension and may require re-valving the forks and rear shock. But a start would be to set the damping to control front dive under brakes and control the rear to maintain traction. This will probably be a compromise for the reason mentioned above. Note, too much rebound damping at either end can compromise handling by prohibiting suspension movement.
Lots of info on the web, including suggested static and rider sag figures and how to use them.
You need to measure static sag and rider sag at both ends from which you can determine if the spring rates are correct. Then adjust the front and rear pre-load to get the final sag setting.
Damping adjustment will be complicated by the limitation of the adjustments available with the OEM suspension and may require re-valving the forks and rear shock. But a start would be to set the damping to control front dive under brakes and control the rear to maintain traction. This will probably be a compromise for the reason mentioned above. Note, too much rebound damping at either end can compromise handling by prohibiting suspension movement.
Lots of info on the web, including suggested static and rider sag figures and how to use them.