gearbox bearing smashed

[Nobbsie]

So the thieving bastards who stole my bike happened to break lots of stuff.
just split the cases to replace the destroyed gearbox bearing is there anything else worth doing wile i have the cases split??
anything else i should check?
would that spring be from the bearing???
would you replace all the bearings?
any advise?
cheers Nobbsie

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[Variablevalves suck]

No need to replace all the bearings just check them for wear, do the same with the clutch etc.
If you don't have a manual get the gk73 one off this site as it is close enough to get torque settings etc and just follow the rebuild procedure.
The Spring thing looks like it's off the oil seal.

Be careful when applying the sealant to the main case joint as there are very small oil feeds running in the actual joint surface and it's very easy to seal one of these if you go heavy.

[willandrip]

Wash the bearings in petrol....no need to take them off any shafts.
If they are any way noisy ....oil them a bit and try for any play.

If rough.....chuck them at someones cat and buy some quality replacements.
Bearings are cheap as fuck compared to pulling a bottom end down again in 3mths time.

If that motor was run like that with bits of shattered bearings flying about....it is pretty much certain that debris will have migrated into other components.
I would certainly replace the bearing on the other end or side to the disintergrated one...the stresses on it by the shaft having no support at one end will have done it in.....not perhaps straight away but you will see it later when run for a while.

Every oilway and the oil pump need very close inspection/cleaning.

[moforockband]

Use the best quality bearings you can. Buy genuine if you do not know the spec. It may be C3 clearance but I am not sure.
I replaced all my main/big end bearings but that cost £120. Spend some time studying the lubrication chart before you stick it all back together.
The critical areas to be kept spotless are from the oil pump to the main gallery (which is the strange big hole in either crankcase cover). Check the 6 tint little jets for clogging (4 spray the piston, 2 spray the gearbox feed.)
The pick-up screen should have protected your engine, but obviously clean that thoroughly in solvent before re-fit.
I did notice on my motor that the end main bearing shell had the oil feed hole mis-matched to the big end shell hole, but that may be meant to be, to increase pressure.
Practice putting the cases together 1st, before putting the sealant on, as it is quite an art.

[Nobbsie]

thank you whole heartily for all the advise!
does anyone use a sealant they swear by?
should i just blow out the oil ways with air?
this is the first time im doing this

[Variablevalves suck]

Most the bearings in the box are or only due to having anti spin firmness so just buy Suzuki if needed.

Yes blow it all out there's not much to it.

Do not use that shit blue sealant, instant gasket crap!
Get the non hardening stuff, you can get it in black.

Remember to refit the oring and copper gasket at the main oil gallery and also the small rubber cam chain guide holder when you re join the cases as they are easy to miss out,
And if you have the gear selector drum out the star shaped gear position paw on the end can go in back to front stopping all gears being selected, it's first in and last out so a complete rebuild if wrong, ask me how I know!

[moforockband]

make sure you can select all gears, before full re-assembly. You can hold the input shaft and out shaft with your hands to make the selector 'ping' in.
Use a torque wrench, and on my engine some of the bolts would only just meet minimum torque as in the book. proceed with caution. The metals 30 years old, and it was crap to begin with.
And as VV says use only the bare minimum of sealant on the cases. The book shows where NOT to put it. 2mm around the main bearings etc.
Good luck man. You can PM me with any questions, it's all fresh in my head as I've just done one with Success!!!!!

[Nobbsie]

would you guys replace the side gaskets and oil pan gasket?
they are in reasonable condition.
just making a parts list of the stuff i need

[moforockband]

You must replace all gaskets with new genuine ones, as the old ones go hard/compressed and will leak as soon as the oil gets hot. It costs less than £100 for the whole set from Suzuki
You can't cut corners with bike engines. Suzuki built your engine and it lasted nearly 30 years. If you bodge it, it will probably fail almost instantly.
Read the manual thoroughly before you start, you will then know what is required. Best of luck!!