Hi all, New member here!

Contrary to the username, I currently ride a 1995 FZR400RR 4DX. Owned for 2 years and still enjoying it!



Got a few little problems that i'd like to solve before the warmer weather kicks in

1. EXUP Valve, It's gained a rattle that adjusting the cables can't solve. Does anyone know where i can get bushes for the valve? Or suggest a place that can make them up? Don't want to replace the whole lot as the exhaust is in great condition.

2. I seem to have the symptoms of a small air leak yet i can't find it! Only thing i can think of it is carb inlet rubbers even though they seem in good condition. Does anyone know where i can find replacements if the rubbers turn out to be leaking? FZR600 rubbers the same?

3. I'm in need of a front master cylinder rebuild kit. My brakes have gotten steadily worse of the last year and it really needs doing! Does anyone have a link to a seller or recommend kits that would fit? Or even a worthwhile upgrade?

4. My clutch has become very notchy, I've filed out the grooves on the clutch basket but to no avail. Is there a common component that can cause this? Maybe the bearing behind the sprocket cover?

5. Looking to gear for acceleration but i've heard that changing the front sprocket can cause clearance issues and i can't find a rear sprocket to match be 520 pitch chain. Is this a myth?

6. This ones a not really a problem but it's bugging me! After dropping my bike last year, I've got a nice dent in my frame, Is there anything that can be done about it or should i just deal with it?



It's a long list i know so thanks in advance! Andy

Hi Andy welcome to the forum :)

To start with the last thing first - that's quite a ding !!! Not sure if it can be pulled out (around the fairing mount) it would need to be a specialist thing it though and you'd need to fill any imperfections and the dent from the bar higher up. Filling a frame isn't something I'd want to do ... and I wouldn't want to find it either.
That was a write off huh ?

I think the bushes are still available from Yamaha expect to pay though.

The inlet stubs are 3tj / 4dx only I think .... run the engine and spay some car cleaner on the stubs you'll here the revs change if there's a leak. Make sure the carbs are balanced though.

You can find a master rebuild kit on ebay it should be the same as a fzr600r foxeye . I use EBC hh pads

Not sure what a notch clutch is but ... If it's stiff then clean the worm gear under the sprocket cover, put a bit of engine oil on and put it back together - old chain lube can gum it up.
Then prise off the rubber bung undo the lock nut and adjust the screw to touch down then take it back a little, then do up the locknut. I use a screwdriver through a sprocket.

Yes you can get a 520 chain conversion (kayla of projection components can help you - have a look in the Approved Traders forum). Just remember these bikes need to be revved to get them flying get it above 8-9k rpm

Any Yamaha dealer for the bush. All Exup models use the same graphite bush.
It is 90% the bush in the removeable end plate that wears; the captive bush is usually ok.

( Four bushes in that reply.......that's very nearly a hedge . !)

Thanks for the replies guys!

The dent came from a slow speed drop while braking, No insurance companies were involved so not a write off only thing damaged other than that was the genny casing but that was easily replaced. The dent was caused by a crash bung that was fitted by the previous owner. Clearly in the wrong place! I feared it may be a specialist job so i guess i'll just have to live with it unless i strip it down again and send the frame off somewhere. More hassle than it's worth really.

The notchy clutch is hard to explain, It's kinda like Off, slight bite, On. Makes town riding hard. I've stripped the bearing behind the sprocket cover down before, cleaned and greased but i'll try with a bit of engine oil and see if it makes a difference.

As for the airleak, I've sprayed everywhere with brake cleaner and i get a VERY SLIGHT rise in rpm but when warm it will stick at 2500rpm idle. Could this be the carbs needing balanced?

I'll strip and check the valve before popping into the local Yamaha dealer to get bushes to see what i need and i'll grab myself a 600 M/C kit

Finally, It's not the fact that the bikes have to be revved to get the best performance out of it, I know that, it's why i love it! but i really don't need 140mph on the roads so a little more acceleration would be a better use of the power

Thanks again guys!

Try a body shop for the frame, they might be able to use some heat and a slide hammer on it.
Crash bungs are usually more trouble than they're worth.

They don't really do 140

Evilchicken0 wrote:Try a body shop for the frame, they might be able to use some heat and a slide hammer on it.
Crash bungs are usually more trouble than they're worth.

They don't really do 140

Tell me something i don't know (other than the questions i've asked)

The world is an oblate spheriod

Hi Andy,

This may or may not be of any help to you. I think I know exactly what you mean with the clutch. I have a bike that it is very hard to pull away on at full revs.....clutch doesn't bite then all of a sudden it fully bites and bike wheelies. My other FZR has a very progressive clutch. I have also tried filing the basket, putting new clutch plates in etc but still the same. When I stripped both the only significant difference was the push rod that pushes the pressure plate away (looks like a big inlet valve with a rubber o ring on NOT the other push rod that is just a rod shape). On the bike with the bad clutch the push rod would not slide freely but was "notchy". My theory is that as you release the clutch, the push rod thing gets stuck, holding the plates apart, the clutch cable goes slack as you let more clutch out and then all of a sudden the push rod thing frees itself and slides in all the way, effectively dumping the clutch.

I changed mine over for one that slides properly.....however I haven't checked to see if the problem is solved, seems better initially but I haven't done a race start yet so can't say.

When I reassembled my clutch it kept on locking solid that was the "top hat" plunger thing it wasn't cantered properly

I'll take a look when i get a chance.

one thing can be ticked off the list is the M/C seals