Race bike preparation questions.

[VFRkieran]

So I've got a few questions about changing my road nc30 into a sub64 race bike,

First of all I'm obviously going to be removing all the lights and unnecessary electrics, can I just unplug and remove the lights/speedo/switchgear and keep the unneeded wiring tucked up out of the way? I'm thinking if I just unplug the speedo it's going to go into limp mode?

I plan to keep the charging system I'm place for the first few races for the simple fact it's one less thing to worry about, I have an Rvf alternator in the garage which I have heard is aprox 300g lighter than the VFR one can anyone confirm this? Got to be worth the weight saving for the cost of a 3 quid gasket.

Last but not least I have finally got hold of some PFM iron discs after wanting them for ages, they will be used on the race bike but I am unsure what pass will be best to use with the iron discs, can anyone share what they have used to the best effect?

Any input will be appreciated,
Kieran.

[RoninZX-10R]

From memory, if you remove the speedo you have to install a resistor otherwise the ECU goes into a limp home mode. I believe the instruction are in the document library.
The RVF alternator is slightly lighter and does help the VFR rev a little quicker. Not sure how much you'd notice it out on the track but for the cost of a gasket I'd do it.
I boguht a set of Braketech ductile iron discs (not sure if the PFM discs are the same?) and they suggested using carbon-ceramic pads as the sintered metal pads eat into the disc fairly aggressively.

[VFRkieran]

Thanks for the info mate, ill look into the resistor mod can everything else be removed without any other modifications? The reason i dont chop it right down is i plan to keep it daytime MOT'ed and theres no way im taking it out on the road without a brake light lol.

Thats good to hear about the alternator think i will give that a shot, it needs to come off the RVF engine regardless so i will get it weighed to confirm but thats 2 people who have told me they are lighter now, anyone got the exact weight of the 2?

Yea the PFM discs are the same Ductile iron, i have just checked the website and it seems they suggest using Carbon ceramic pads, SBS sell them on ebay but ive never used this brand before. Didnt realise using normal pads would wear the discs more, thanks for the heads up on that.

[Cammo]

Thats good to hear about the alternator think i will give that a shot, it needs to come off the RVF engine regardless so i will get it weighed to confirm but thats 2 people who have told me they are lighter now, anyone got the exact weight of the 2?

You might need the rvf flywheel too, I'm not sure - there was an early (k model - Hitachi) and late (90 onwards - Nippon Denso) flywheel/generator combination for the nc30 and neither part is compatible with the other if you get what I mean.

I've come across a few that were swapped at some stage, the only way to tell which one you have is by checking it out (it's stamped into the flywheel). If anything, the rvf generator might be compatible with the late nc30 flywheel.

[VFRkieran]

I meant the whole unit would be swapped over, Last i heard the actual flywheel is thinner and where the weight is saved but i planned to swap the whole lot for the ease of it.

Ill have a look at the 2 to compare if nobody can come forward to say for sure what the differences are, i had assumed the whole unit would be a straight swap but maybe that isnt the case if the RVF and VFR ones where made by different manufacturers.

You never know Cam i might actually Save that kilo of weight from the engine that ive been banging on about for ages

[Cammo]

Haha yeah you might!

The whole unit (gennie and flywheel) will swap over fine.

[VFRkieran]

Haha yeah you might!

The whole unit (gennie and flywheel) will swap over fine.

Ah at least thats cleared up then, cheers.

Reckon i will be getting close to 800g-1kilo with the alternator/flywheel, cams and quietening gears if i take them out, have heard the RVF clutch basket is lighter too so i might swap that over at some point.

[Cammo]

Yeah that's a significant weight saving swapping those parts over and removing quietening gears.

You'll need to use an rvf clutch with the rvf clutch basket.

[Neosophist]

Haha yeah you might!

The whole unit (gennie and flywheel) will swap over fine.

Ah at least thats cleared up then, cheers.

Reckon i will be getting close to 800g-1kilo with the alternator/flywheel, cams and quietening gears if i take them out, have heard the RVF clutch basket is lighter too so i might swap that over at some point.

Well I changed the rear steel sprocket which was 850grams to an alloy one that was 350 grams so saved 600g there.

Alo went with non-o ring chain which was a little lighter too.

Depends on how crazy you are about weight saving.

You could go total loss ditch most of the stock loom and fit an LED brake light to save on power, making a wiring loom fo that is easy. save a good couple of kg ditching stock loom, then you can ditch flywheel all together

[VFRkieran]

Hi Neo , I've got a 520 chain fitted with rental hard anodized sprockets so I've got rid of a fair chunk of weight there already.

I'm not too crazy about shedding loads of weight, just removing any unnecessary gear or swapping lighter bits from my spare rvf engine that are lighter. Will obviously be chopping down the subframe and fitting lighter clip ons etc but nothing too drastic.

On the subject of removing the flywheel and chopping the loom down it is something I will be doing in the future but for the first few races I don't want to worry about running out of charge or forgetting to put it on charge in the first place. Once I get into the swing of things I will be running total loss for sure.