Ideal fuelling set up for road going RVF.

[Mac_Kaliba]

I have an RVF which has sat for a few years, now I can afford to gradually spend on it and get it on the road again
(with occasional track use also intended).
The bike has covered something like 24,000 miles IIRC, and before leaving it I had just re-shimmed the valves and given it a good overall service.
I'm looking towards the future as ever and would appreciate advice on what I'm going to need to get a good 60+ BHP, Ideally with a good midrange and improved feel and I hope without any loss at the top end.

From lurking on here and general research I'm looking at the following set-ups:
1: TYGA shotgun stack carbon system.
TYGA increased capacity carbon air box lid.
Pipercross filter mod (Where do I even get hold of the filter material?)
??? Main jets?
Ignitech p4 programmed as Rick Oliver 'fixed' the original Ignitech.
HRC fuel tap mod + Dry break fuel line.
2: Same as above but with a TYGA full system with Maggot can.

Any comments or mods or parts that I've missed out on, or redundant bits there please shoot!

Cheers,
Mac.

[Cammo]

The best thing you can do to increase power on these bikes is fit a good exhaust system, muffler and jet it appropriately. Different mufflers won't give much different performance, the gain is in fitting the freer flowing exhaust system. If you fit a full tyga exhaust system you'll be needing to fit 4 x 115 size main jets. If you just swap the muffler use 112 jets.

Aftermarket filters can get you 1 extra horsepower or so, but you'll need to experiment with jetting to get it right, and often it ruins the midrange performance. Not worth it for me, particularly on road bikes.

I don't know that the ignitech will give you any extra power over the standard cdi, there's been a fair bit of back-to-back dyno testing done on both.

If the bike has standard suspension then upgrading this will give you the most performance gain of anything.

[speedy231278]

On Tyga's site, the twin stack system is listed with a dyno chart that shows the difference between a completely stock 35 and one with the system, plus race foam, short stacks and 125 mains. Stock was 50bhp, after modding was 64. However, I would reckon that with short stacks and a foam filter it's probably not going to be all that fun on the road? At some point I'd like the carbon stack system too, and I'd like a bit more power. However, I'd rather fix the rather fluffy mid-range than gain loads of power at the top at the expense of making the rest even worse. Realistically, on the road you can't pin the bike to the stop all of the time, so you need to have decent performance in the middle of the range of you're going to be really annoyed with the way it goes....

[CMSMJ1]

On Tyga's site, the twin stack system is listed with a dyno chart that shows the difference between a completely stock 35 and one with the system, plus race foam, short stacks and 125 mains. Stock was 50bhp, after modding was 64. However, I would reckon that with short stacks and a foam filter it's probably not going to be all that fun on the road? At some point I'd like the carbon stack system too, and I'd like a bit more power. However, I'd rather fix the rather fluffy mid-range than gain loads of power at the top at the expense of making the rest even worse. Realistically, on the road you can't pin the bike to the stop all of the time, so you need to have decent performance in the middle of the range of you're going to be really annoyed with the way it goes....

I'd be amazed if that were actually the case...or the same bike even. perhaps tygapaul would be able to elaborate..

ref the OP -as per Cammo's last line - get it handling. Power is still going to be fuck all of nowt when it comes to it and so you need to play the strengths of the bike and it is not power, or straight line stomp

[Neosophist]

On Tyga's site, the twin stack system is listed with a dyno chart that shows the difference between a completely stock 35 and one with the system, plus race foam, short stacks and 125 mains. Stock was 50bhp, after modding was 64. However, I would reckon that with short stacks and a foam filter it's probably not going to be all that fun on the road? At some point I'd like the carbon stack system too, and I'd like a bit more power. However, I'd rather fix the rather fluffy mid-range than gain loads of power at the top at the expense of making the rest even worse. Realistically, on the road you can't pin the bike to the stop all of the time, so you need to have decent performance in the middle of the range of you're going to be really annoyed with the way it goes....

I'd be amazed if that were actually the case...or the same bike even. perhaps tygapaul would be able to elaborate..

ref the OP -as per Cammo's last line - get it handling. Power is still going to be fuck all of nowt when it comes to it and so you need to play the strengths of the bike and it is not power, or straight line stomp

I wouldnt be surprised if it was true.

A badly set up faffed about bike will run in the 50s

A well setup 30/35 will be about 60-62hp.

Kev from Projex's race 35 has a tyga twin stack and thats around 64hp I think, but has the smoothest power curve ive seen :)

[CMSMJ1]

On Tyga's site, the twin stack system is listed with a dyno chart that shows the difference between a completely stock 35 and one with the system, plus race foam, short stacks and 125 mains. Stock was 50bhp, after modding was 64. However, I would reckon that with short stacks and a foam filter it's probably not going to be all that fun on the road? At some point I'd like the carbon stack system too, and I'd like a bit more power. However, I'd rather fix the rather fluffy mid-range than gain loads of power at the top at the expense of making the rest even worse. Realistically, on the road you can't pin the bike to the stop all of the time, so you need to have decent performance in the middle of the range of you're going to be really annoyed with the way it goes....

I'd be amazed if that were actually the case...or the same bike even. perhaps tygapaul would be able to elaborate..

ref the OP -as per Cammo's last line - get it handling. Power is still going to be fuck all of nowt when it comes to it and so you need to play the strengths of the bike and it is not power, or straight line stomp

I wouldnt be surprised if it was true.

A badly set up faffed about bike will run in the 50s

A well setup 30/35 will be about 60-62hp.

Kev from Projex's race 35 has a tyga twin stack and thats around 64hp I think, but has the smoothest power curve ive seen :)

I was more meaning that a 50 to 64 is a magic trick.

I could make my bike run like shit and then dyno it, then put it back to normal and pretend it was magic pixie dust.

my NC dynos at 59-60 and has a lovely setup. (well, my old motor did)

[Mac_Kaliba]

I'm taking Kev's bike as a benchmark actually, but then I'm not going to be racing.. Fast road riding though, and by that I mean I previously had a ZX10r C1H, so I'm confident that I'll be able to use all the power that I can realistically get.
I would like to retain or even improve the midrange if possible, and from what I've read on here Rick Oliver programmed a fix for the old Ignitech unit making losses at high RPM's, but it appears that the midrange is actually improved, if you go off what this chart tells you.


Of course now that I look at that when it's not 4AM I think, well actually that's £175 for no practical gain for me, so maybe I might drop that idea Bottom line is if I can gain an extra 500RPM and somehow improve the midrange then it'd be worth it in my eyes.
Speedy if this is the chart of which you're referring too then all I see is gains..

Sure the bike doesn't have the same surge at 6~7k but it's more powerful throughout the range and tbh I think I could live with that, I'm quite comfortable road riding at 7k minimum when I think about it.
I take it from that chart that there must have been come form of Ignition unit other than stock involved, because there's a leap from 13 to 14k? Also I don't understand the AFR section, because that's way off Lambda or is that not the point?

Anyhow, what I'm taking from you lot at the moment is that if I want reasonable gains then I should stick with the system and a re-jet.. Only when I'm prepared to splash out for dyno-time should I consider the airbox, f/f filter, springs and CDI?

The sole reason that I'm looking at exhaust currently is because I may have the opportunity to get one at half it's RRP, so not an opportunity to be missed.
I've already got the front set-up about as nicely as I could hope with stock internals but the rear shock is shot.. so next on the list will be an Ohlins or Penkse, or even a nice Maxton, but it may be some time before I have that kind of money.
Whilst we're on the subject of handling.. just so I don't have to start a new thread down the line, what's the best modification that can be made to the RVF forks?
I'm intending to have the stanchions DLC'd and the tubes re-anodized just for preference, but bar that is the Ohlins treatment worth considering or should I just go for something like a GP30 kit?

Thanks again,
Mac.

[CMSMJ1]

Whatever you change with it - system, carbs etc - get it dyno'd

RVF forks are old tech but with springs to suit and a service/setup they'll be great.

Same as for the shock.



I'm coming across as a pessimistic grumpy arsehat a lot lately and I really don't mean to...but the bottom line is that if you are not on the throttle as fast as you can be for as long as you can be then 60 or 65 bhp makes no odds.

race bike - it matters, as you need to take every advantage, but road bike..nope. No-one rides, or IMO, should ride, to that limit on the roads.


however, you got the cash and the inclination - get on it mate - let us know how you got on, as it has been a while since we had someone go mad on the bikes..

I've been there, done it, done it again, got bored, broke the motor, took about a year to be arsed to put it back together and now cannot even be arsed to fit my gsxr genny or racing clutch to the engine I have now.


BTW - gsxr genny - that is a good idea on these bikes..

[Drunkn Munky]

As for forks, trumpet 675 forks go in and can still retain the honda wheel and discs. That gives you upto date tech forks, radial brakes and the option to fit the R spec kit

[ireson75]

As for forks, trumpet 675 forks go in and can still retain the honda wheel and discs. That gives you upto date tech forks, radial brakes and the option to fit the R spec kit

Is that in standard yokes? Cheers