Clutch will not disengage - NC30

[Mockery]

I am at a loss here...

I've recently had the whole front end off my bike, new steering head bearings then reinstallation of nicely repainted yokes, new clipons grips & levers, ali instrument stay and it's all very pretty. BUT for some reason I cannot fathom, the clutch now refuses to disengage when the lever is pulled in.

I haven't touched the engine, just installed the carbon airbox lid (which makes it ping a bit at idle but that's by the by...)
I have tried swapping back to the original lever, i think it kind of worked once but when I tried it the second time it didn't.
I have also had the sprocket cover off to check out the pushrod and mechanism even though nothing had been changed.

I have adjusted the cable and lever so it pulls through as much cable as absolutely possible, and the best I could get is this:
When I run it on the stand and pull in the clutch, snick it into first and the wheel spins up and hums merrily around. With the lever in.
I can apply the rear brake to stop the wheel, which drops the revs slightly. The first few times I tried that, it could stall the engine, but now it can run still, slipping the clutch.
I release the brake, the wheel whizzes away again, and when I put it back in neutral, it slows down and stops right away.

This is way more than just oil movement!
Now the bike has sat on these stands for at least a couple of months now, I have heard of some bikes having clutch plates stick together which sorted itself once the oil got around there, but mine ain't sorting itself...

Anyone know anything or should I get a professional to come look at it? It's due for a service anyway, and at this stage I stop short of getting into the engine as I find it a hassle with oil disposal and everything... Plus I reckon someone expert should see the bike every once in a while in case my self-taught skills are lacking!

[wullvfr]

tie the lever back to the grip and leave for a few days........if this fails then it looks like you will have to strip the clutch down and see exactly whats at fault.more than likely the clutch plates.

[Mockery]

okay... i've heard of this technique for getting airbubbles out of the brakes, but not for a cable clutch before.
It's worth a shot anyhow, thanks!

[CMSMJ1]

So the adjustment at the engine side is all good too? Have you fitted different levers? Might not pull enough cable?

Mine will just about spin the rear wheel with the clutch pulled in so not too worried about that.

The clutch is a simple beast so I reckon get a mate over to point out something obvious that you might be missing

[superlite]

just installed the carbon airbox lid (which makes it ping a bit at idle but that's by the by...)

Have you tried setting the pilot screws out another 1/4-1/2 turn? Usually does the trick.

Not sure about the clutch. As you say, it can really only be at the lever end or a symptom of being stood around for a while? Whip off the clutch cover and have a look see

[Neosophist]

If you can get it into first take it for a drive somewhere and keep trying to use the clutch, it might free the plates up with a load on the engine.

[Mockery]

just installed the carbon airbox lid (which makes it ping a bit at idle but that's by the by...)

Have you tried setting the pilot screws out another 1/4-1/2 turn? Usually does the trick.

I have, but I can only get at one of the screws unless I take the carbs off; don't want to do that at the moment.
Actually there's a question about that: are there supposed to be pilot screws on the outer 2 carbs? Because what mine have are holes where pilot screws might once have been. (i.e. Carb 1 - up and to the left of where the idle speed adjuster mounts)
NB - I do know the difference between fuel drain screw and pilot screw... i think...

@CMSMJ1: the adjustment at the engine side is maxed; it couldn't possibly pull any more cable, and that pushrod is most definitely getting pushed.
It has new levers but does the same thing with the original refitted. Gotta be plates, I'm thinking.

[Neosophist]

They will all have pilot screws.

This article is for the cbr250 which has an I4 engine, hence the straight carsb, but all the bits are the same on the 30's carbs.

http://www.cr-x.org/cbr250/forum/topic. ... IC_ID=8268" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[alexibrow]

tie the lever back to the grip and leave for a few days

+1

I had the exact same problem on my NC31; new clutch with heavy duty springs and fresh oil meant the springs were squeezing the oil out of the cork plates overnight, leaving them stuck fast together in the morning.

I found that pulling the clutch lever in, holding the front brake on then starting the engine was enough to free it, albeit with one hell of a clonk! Then I tried tying the clutch lever to the bar end overnight, which was much better.

Once the oil had been in there for a while, it stopped doing it all together... until I put some fresh oil in 5000 miles later! Wasn't as bad the second time round though, and it was fine after a few days. Clutch must have bedded in properly by then.

Let us know how you go.

[Mockery]

Okay, lever is tied back, will check this weekend to see what happens...