NC35 carb removal

[speedy231278]

Right, valve clearance time... however, I've hit a snag.. how in the name of lving f**k do you get the carbs off? Haynes says fiddle about with the control cables which is easy enough to understand, then casually says something along the lines of 'slacken upper inlet rubber clamps and remove'. How the sodding hell do you get to them? It shows a pic of the 30, and you can see the screws clear as day. I can just about see the bands on the #1 cylinder, and the screws seem to be pointing at the inside of the frame!

Anyone who does this on a regualr basis got any tips or pics? I've got the airbox off for a bit space, but I'm a bit lost. As yet I've not dropped the top rad, however that's not an issue as I have anew one to fit anyway... I'm off out now to twirl some spanners on something rather different, but if anyone has any advice for when I get back that would be great! I'm sure it's easy when you know how, but right now, I don't...

[Drunkn Munky]

Get a light in there and find the screw heads, it depends on the person that last put them on and where they positioned them but logic says if there done up then you should have access to undo them. A long screw driver helps and if they've been on for some time a crow bar to lever them off, we took zippy's off his rvf the other week and I've never come across a set so stuck on.

[arsey30]

It all depends on where the clip screws were positioned when the carbs were fitted, there are correct locations, but they can be fitted in any position.
If the screws point away from you, then go to the other side of the bike with a long screwdriver and torch and approach from that side.
It may be possible to reach them from above, going down in between carbs 1 and 3.
If the top screw is hidden try the lower one.

I was composing, whilst quick type Tony was posting.

[speedy231278]

So, it's definitely access from the sides then? The single, useless pic in the Haynes implies from the top, but that's never going to happen as best I can tell! I remember that when I had the thermostat housing off there was a reasonable view of them on one side, but I'd rather not be taking that off again if I can avoid it... Got back way later than planned, so it'll be tomorrow before I try this. Spent most of the afternoon successfully helping with changing pads and discs on a VW Sharan, so I suppose at least something went to plan... lol

[deequeue]

Hey speedy,

Go in from the left hand side of the bike, underneath the frame rail, between the Vee. You'll need the longest screwdriver in the world, and a torch :)

I'd recommend using the valve clearance sticky guide that's at the top of this section too, there's some good advice in there, and I'm not sure if you know, but the valve measurement in the Haynes manual is wrong for the NC30.

Dale

[speedy231278]

I have an NC30, so as long as the values are right for that, it'll be ok... has taken forever to get the carbs off and I'm finding it a right pain in the arse to measure everything. I'm also rapidly running out of time, so it looks like it'll roll into next weekend now, which wasn't part of the plan!

[Neosophist]

I have an NC30, so as long as the values are right for that, it'll be ok... has taken forever to get the carbs off and I'm finding it a right pain in the arse to measure everything. I'm also rapidly running out of time, so it looks like it'll roll into next weekend now, which wasn't part of the plan!

Do not rush, easy to put a shim in badly etc while rushing and then drop a valve later. (seen it on here several times)

First time doing it (properly) I reckon it will easily take a whole day to do the valve clearances, giving time to get th ebike in bits, measure and replace (if available) check the carbs while its off and get back togther.

[CMSMJ1]

Aye - first time takes ages.

I can recall that before I had the knack I even had an overnight moratorium on the fixing as I could not get my fecking carbs on.

do it right first time as it is far less time consuming than stripping it again

[speedy231278]

Got 10 done. I'm a more than a little annoyed that I had to leave it, but I was cold, damp from walking to and from the garage in the rain, aching, and fed up by about 5pm, so I figured sod the extra train fare going back home next weekend and finish it then, rather than screw it up. I'm a little uneasy about what I've seemingly found, but that's rather off topic for this thread. At least I have new almost everything for putting back together. Four cam cover bolts (rears are nice and clean, fronts range from minging to so badly corroded it was a miracle one actually came out), all eight grommets for the bolts, new rubbers, new and mint secondhand clamps, etc....

[Dynamohum]

Good move leaving till later nothing worse than being cold and rushing against the clock been there before. Dunno about the nc35 but the inlets on the front cylinders are the most awkward to change shims on an nc30 for me.
Plenty rags just incase and a magnet pen invaluable.