Long story short, i know what a tearing bolt feels like now.
Was using a brand new torque wrench and hadnt reached its setting yet.
Luckily i stopped after that because i noticed 2 other bolts were going too after taking them backout.

Pix:
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155 ... AG0116.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155 ... AG0119.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155 ... AG0117.jpg

So what the cluck now?
Is there ways to get this out or is the whole block doomed?

Broken bolts when tightening are easier to get out than those breaking on undoing, as corrosion can then be a problem.

Drill a hole on the centre and tap a small Torks bit in, and gently try to undo it.

Check the torque wrench calibration [against another, were you using kg-m, and not foot /lbs?]

Just take the heads off and get some grips on there, you could try some easy outs, but personally I've not had much luck,,

arsey30 wrote:Broken bolts when tightening are easier to get out than those breaking on undoing, as corrosion can then be a problem.

Drill a hole on the centre and tap a small Torks bit in, and gently try to undo it.

Check the torque wrench calibration [against another, were you using kg-m, and not foot /lbs?]

Will give this a try tomorrow
I was using nm and im damn sure of it, wasnt much resistance when it gave way either, it must have just been its time.

If they break easily, then change them all, sounds like they have been over tightened at some stage and are now stretched and waisted.
Have a close look at the threaded part that lines up with head gasket to see if it looks waisted.

arsey30 wrote:If they break easily, then change them all, sounds like they have been over tightened at some stage and are now stretched and waisted.
Have a close look at the threaded part that lines up with head gasket to see if it looks waisted.

Yeah already decided im getting a new set for the lot of them, not taking anymore chances

arsey30 wrote: Check the torque wrench calibration [against another, were you using kg-m, and not foot /lbs?]

Or just bin the torque wrench and learn how to gauge torque with your arm

Why guess when you can get it right every time?

I never owned a torque wrench for my first 30 years of fettling as the manuals did not publish many settings, but did borrow one for cylinder head tightening.
However, I have used one for the last 20 years when working on Japanese stuff, mainly on critical parts and those requiring the same tension on each bolt.

I agree it is important to learn the correct pull required on a bolt, as stretched bolts, wrong figure, and a faulty torque wrench will then be obvious from the pull required.

My dad always told me thats why he kept his deflection type torque wrench - you have feel, and can see how far away from the setting you are. If you are really close you can stop a nm or two short rather than blindly following the elusive click. Also, if it feels like its yielding and you are miles away you can give up before the bolt breaks rather than the straw that breaks the camels back

Production is very different, but I now have my own deflection type wrench

First time I used a torque wrench it was a massive one meant for stuff like wheel nuts. It wasn't sensitive enough at the settings I was starting from, and I snapped a bolt. I don't bother with them much these days though I've never done any engine internal work more than clutch plates/baskets and alternators.