Wheel painting

[iDemonix]

Here's my NC30 as she stands: (Well actually she's in about 100 pieces in the garage now)



I quite like the black wheels with red rim tape, but the front is a bit scabby and the rear is VERY scabby thanks to a leaking rear brake (now fixed) which stripped a lot of paint off.

Seeing as the bike is unrideable AND I need new tyres, now is the best time to get them done.

1. Does anyone know the paint code for the red that the wheels are meant to be?
2. 2 pack or powder coating? I understand powder coating is a ball ache as it means removing the valve, bearings etc
3. Anyone know a good painter in Nottingham?

[Drunkn Munky]

Its no ballache removing the bearings etc, 2 min job.

2 pac will cost you more but the finish is better, powder coat is tougher.

[iDemonix]

I thought 2 pack wasn't as good as PC, there you go! Although I do like the sound of tougher, as they'll inevitably get covered in stone chips and abrasive brake dust.

[iDemonix]

Right, I've got the front wheel off, block of wood and hydraulic jack under the sump and a rear paddock stand - feels a bit wobbly >.<

Two questions: 1. How do I get the bearings out and how hard do they need tapping? 2. Since I've got this far, how much work is it to free the forks? They could do with powder coating too.

[iDemonix]

Decided to go for powder coating. Having them powder coated a vibrant red then lacquered. £70 for the pair, can't complain!

[speedy231278]

The wheel bearings need to be driven out with a drift, or pulled out with a bearing puller. I don't know about the latter, but if you drive them out, they'll probably be no good for reuse. Ideally, they need to be pressed back in rather than driven with a drift or socket. Note that sometimes they can be a complete bugger to get out, on my TZR I took the wheel to a local workshop and they wouldn't come out with a drift, puller, the shell was so tough it wouldn't cut, and in the end they welded a bolt across the shell and beat it out that way!

If the front is not being suspended via the forks, they should just unbolt from the yokes. You need to undo the handlebars as well, of course. It's possible they might want only the sliders, and not the shiny bits though....

[porndoguk]

provided the bearing houses are cleaned out and then a bit of sand paper, the a smear of grease nowt wrong with gently knocking them in with a socket.

Only bearing that i found on the NC that needed a press was the swingarm.

Rick

[gpz900]

Put the bearings in the freezer overnight, and or heat the hub gently with a blowtorch. The bearings should
slip in nice and easy then.

[iDemonix]

Ugh, a bad start to the day just got even worse.

Wheels are powder coated, they look the dogs bollocks, new bearings are fitted etc.

Just went to fit the brake discs, the sprayer didn't tape up the holes for the brake disc bolts, so I can not for the life of me get the bolts all the way in. With immense pressure I can get the bolt in the hole and tightened, but there's still about 3-4mm of thread left I can't tighten. Gutted isn't the word. Also, the lip that the brake disc sits on, the brake disc won't go on to this lip now, my guess is that it's been powdercoated and is now too thick, so I'm going to have to get a knife and very carefully scrape the powdercoat away from that lip with a knife :/ Fucks sake.

Anyone know how I can get the paint out of these holes? I'm guessing I'll have to run a tap down them or something? But I don't have that kind of kit

[bikemonkey]

Sounds like a job for a tap to me I'm afraid. Unless you get an old bolt and cut slices down the sides of it and use it like a tap, little bit of bodgery but should work....