Fork Refurb part 2 seals, bushes as well or not?

[oldgreyandslow]

The idea was to remove the forks, drain the oil, repaint the lowers, refill with new oil, fit the FOC dust seals (thanks Dave!) job done.

However it looks like I may have a seal gone on one fork. Having removed the fork when I compress it I see a slight line of oil on the stanchion, so I guess this means a new seal is required?

If I change the seal do I need to change the bushes while I'm at it or can I just change the seals?

Cheers.

[arsey30]

Remove the dust seal and see how much oil sits above the oil seal.
It will only get worse.
Not seen much wear in the bushes, but grasp the lower legs and pull back and forth to see if any play.

When apart, wear marks will show up as shiney patches on the bush.

[oldgreyandslow]

Any tips on getting the damper bolt undone?

Its stuck fast

I've tried standing the fork upside down, pushing on it to compress the spring and attempting to undo the bolt, however I think I need three hands!

[oldgreyandslow]

Remove the dust seal and see how much oil sits above the oil seal.
It will only get worse.
Not seen much wear in the bushes, but grasp the lower legs and pull back and forth to see if any play.

When apart, wear marks will show up as shiney patches on the bush.

There's no oil above the oil seal and only a very faint line visible when you compress the fork, there appears to be no play either

[arsey30]

You only need to compress the spring if the bolt and damper rod turns.

Clamp the fork in the vice by the caliper mount castings.

The bolt head socket is shallow and the thread should have thread lock applied.
Use a 1/2" drive long Allen bit in a tee bar, set half way so that you apply equal pull each side and the spanner sits square, not pulling to one side, trying to round out the head.

An impact gun will shift it, but I have never had to resort to that.

[oldgreyandslow]

You only need to compress the spring if the bolt and damper rod turns.

Clamp the fork in the vice by the caliper mount castings.

The bolt head socket is shallow and the thread should have thread lock applied.
Use a 1/2" drive long Allen bit in a tee bar, set half way so that you apply equal pull each side and the spanner sits square, not pulling to one side, trying to round out the head.

An impact gun will shift it, but I have never had to resort to that.

Two difficulties with this advice Dave
No vice, I have plenty of vices but not the right one.
No long allen bit, not long enough anyway.
I have tried a standard allen key with 6mm ring spanner for more leverage, without success.

[arsey30]

You don't want to risk rounding out the socket head, really need to clamp the fork firm.

If you are stuck, come over.

[Dynamohum]

Two difficulties with this advice Dave
No vice, I have plenty of vices but not the right one.
No long allen bit, not long enough anyway.
I have tried a standard allen key with 6mm ring spanner for more leverage, without success.[/quote]

a black & decker workmate type bench is great for doing forks if you know of someone who can lend you one, allows you clamp lowers using caliper mounts in the jaws without damage also a long 6mm allan key socket to fit a 3/8 or 1/2 drive is worthwhile purchase or borrow one . shock the bolt first and it should come out easily as has been said the bolt is shallow and threadlocked you dont want to round it off.

the bushes are not really that expensive so worthwhile doing when replacing the seals for completely overhauled forks imo.

[oldgreyandslow]

Two difficulties with this advice Dave
No vice, I have plenty of vices but not the right one.
No long allen bit, not long enough anyway.
I have tried a standard allen key with 6mm ring spanner for more leverage, without success.

a black & decker workmate type bench is great for doing forks if you know of someone who can lend you one, allows you clamp lowers using caliper mounts in the jaws without damage also a long 6mm allan key socket to fit a 3/8 or 1/2 drive is worthwhile purchase or borrow one . shock the bolt first and it should come out easily as has been said the bolt is shallow and threadlocked you dont want to round it off.[/quote]


Ah good ideaI have a workmate type bench, I'll try that. I did go to Halfords and Camberley Auto Factors to try to get a long 6mm allen socket, they didn't have one. I'll see if I can get one elsewhere.

Not quite sure what you mean by shocking it first?

I could tell it the price of petrol these days, thats enough to shock anyone or anything

[Dynamohum]

get lower clamped in workmate as tight as possible between the caliper mounts use a rag round it to protect paint if needed then make sure long socket is properly seated in bolt then give a few sharp taps with a hammer before putting a t bar or ratchet then it should come out no problemo..