RVF open air box

[twist&go]

hey
just wanted some advice from anyone on here about running RVF carbs on a open air like the nc30. tryed searching havent found anything.
is it possible to run RVF carbs open as ive been told that they only work with the ram air set up. Ive heard of people running RVF carbs open but am told that set up/mods are a little bit different to the nc30. anywho any advice would be great cheers

[Drunkn Munky]

Yes its right that you dont set 35 carbs up the same as 30 carbs, the jetting is totally different whatever setup you decide to run. As for running 35 carbs open, myself and another forum member have had success with the following setup,

No airbox
Standard filter with the paper element cutout and replaced with some thin foam
130 mains
HRC slide springs
Short stacks

Everything else stock inc the rubber headstock flap still in place, i dare say you could run with no filter at all but your gunna need different jetting.

[RoninZX-10R]

I currently run an open airbox on my race RVF. I used 150 main jets, a set of Rick Oliver (UK 400gb member) reproduction rvf hrc slide springs which richen the midrange up nicely. I also installed 2 more short velocity stacks (same as what comes standard) to move the peak power up slightly higher in the rev range.

I don't have an air filter installed since it's only used on the track, but I think this year I'll secure some sort of fine mesh to keep out any large objects (just in case I crash...again )

[twist&go]

cheers lads thats cleared things up for me

[doodleface]

I almost have the exact same setup as you -
Open airbox
150 size jets.
Looks like raised needles (but have to check for sure)

On the dyno got a huge rich area mid range.
Normal stacks.
No drilled slides (but people seem to be successful with them too) -Considering it.
Heres the kicker.
Bike only puts out 55 HP. For all that work and extra shit in your engine.

From what i've read people are getting 64's just going up the main jets a bit (112/115) and run the airbox but just cut out the paper filter and run it with the metal cage.

Will go back to that. The bike is designed to be really nice stock, i dyno'd it to be sure and she puts out pretty much stock anyway, in a far more unhealthy manner. Just bought a bunch of jets to try again.
Bleh

[Cammo]

From what i've read people are getting 64's just going up the main jets a bit (112/115) and run the airbox but just cut out the paper filter and run it with the metal cage.

Those sized jets will suit rvf carbs, aftermarket exhaust and NO airbox/filter mods.

Once you start screwing with the airbox and filter setup it changes the jetting requirements dramatically.

A genuine 60 hp is achievable on an rvf engine fitted with a decent full aftermarket exhaust and the carbs jetted to suit. 64 hp probably not, but it obviously depends on the dyno.

[scooble]

I've seen 64hp from the Dynotech dyno on an RVF fitted with a full Ti race system and jetted to suit

[Drunkn Munky]

I've seen 64hp from the Dynotech dyno on an RVF fitted with a full Ti race system and jetted to suit

What system was that?

[doodleface]

Well I bought a HRC replica kit and should have it soon! Super excited!
HAs anyone else got one of these kits? I'm looking for people who have some DYNO results with a particular setup... if not, anyone know what the appropriate setup is?

Speaking to rick some people cut a bigger hole 80x110 in the airbox and get rid of the scoop... lol so many options, what to do! LOL! Also cutting it is a one time thing, can't go back then! I have an RVF airbox with the paper filter cut out, just wondering if I should run the regular airbox without a scoop, take the lid off and only run the metal filter, or if i should just take the whole lot out?

Dunno what you guys think.

[Cammo]

I would keep the setup as close to what hrc recommends in the kit manual.