Race Battery

[28hodge]

Ok ive searched and dug up an old post......... viewtopic.php?f=24&t=23618&start=20

Now bear with me here as i am electrically clueless, but im understanding the principle i think.

I need a dewalt battery pack with 14.4 volts i think, i can then rob the a123 cells from this and use them as my battery pack, and if used with the charging circuit on the bike they will be fine??

I need to retain the charging unit as i want to run my bike in streetstocks so it has to have a working charging circuit.

Any help would be great, if i can sort a battery this next week then the bike is pretty much ready to see if i can get it started and running after sitting in a shed for 10 years.

Thanks
Kurt

[Cammo]

Are you trying to lose every extra gram of weight? Do you still use the starter motor fitted?

Personally I think it's easier (and gives me more confidence) just using a small motorcycle battery. A YTX-5 or similar size is a lot smaller than standard.

Make sure it's a high performance sealed unit that has enough cold cranking amps to start the engine (if you still use the starter).

[28hodge]

Cammo,

not every extra gram but just the easy hit parts that will lose weight, so subframe and battery are the first two easy gains and most cost effective arent they in terms of cost per gram saved??

Yes the starter will still being used but the post i read intimaates that you should get 20 odd starts from this set up, and the charging unit of the bike will still be fully intact.

But if the small batteries that you mention save a good chunk then thats alot easier so i'll head down that route, what cold cranking amps do i need??

Sorry i really am electrically clueless

Thanks
Kurt

[Neosophist]

Is this an NC30?

There are plenty of ways to shed lots of weight.

Been a while since i've helped build a race bike so this list won't be comprehensive but it might contain a few ideas you haven't considered.

Remove all the tape from the wiring loom and remove and wires you dont' need, braid (plait) the wiring loom instead of using electrical tape as it saves weight.

Alloy subframe + race seat

for the fairings contact some of the chinenese mfgs and ask them if they can make soem 'thinner' the HRC factory bikes use paper thin panels which weigh buggar all.

gsxr flywheel, lots lighter and engie spins up faster.

magnesium wheels

ti nuts and bolt / axles / spindles whereever possible.

remove quitening gears from cams

[28hodge]

Yeah its an NC30, like i say im trying to do the most cost effective, or cheapest ones first as the budget isnt great.

Basically the bike hasnt run in 8-10 years so im just concntrating on getting it running and as i need a battery for it i thought i may aswell buy/make the correct one first time round, and as much as i'd like to go buy a durbahn race power pack funds are needed elsewhere.

I have fairing etc and as its going to be a track bike it will be crashed so would prefer something thats a bit more crash resistant.
Got a chopped down subframe that once im happy with i will get someone to copy using alloy.

Dymags are next on my list if i can find some. id love to say gym membership but only being 11.5stone i dont think i can lose much of myself, which is a shame as it'd a bit cheaper option than the dymags!

GSXR flywheel will have to wait till funds allow.

I'll remove the quitening gears once i know the engine is fully up and running.

Ti bolts etc as and when bolts need replacing i have spare cash.

Thanks for the list tho it confirms that im thinking in the right order, slowly getting somewhere near!