cbr 400 NC 23

[super bob]

Im going to start fixing up my nc 23 the weekend it needs a new front tire new fork seals new pads am going to get the exhaust down pipes of it to and give them a good clean and re spray aswell. Is there anything I should look out for what is tricky many thanks. ps if anyone has some side panels for sale am lookin for new ones.

[petrolhead19]

good luck mate, always fun fixing 23's, to be honest i have stripped and rebuilt quite a few and never run into any problems or tricky parts, just make sure when you put the headers back on they are lined up perfect cause even when you tighten them if there not lined up they wont sit right.
Also the bolt to get the stantions out to replace the fork soil seals can sometimes round so make sure you have an allen key the perfect size and use a big bar on the end while pushing down on it.
Rest of what your doing is pretty straight forward mate.

Get stuck or need any advice drop me a pm pal

Have fun :D

[amorti]

Use an impact wrench and long Allen bit on the fork damper bolts. Anything else will take ages, and may end up in you wrecking something. The most which get rounded are because folk still try to use the ball end of an Allen key. BAD idea!

Be sure to clean up the calipers while you are doing the pads. One at a time: remove pads, pump pistons out against a piece of wood (to ensure they don't fall out completely!) then clean up. If they are lightly rusty, use a brass brush first (NOT steel), then use brake cleaner and a rag to tidy up. You want the pistons shiny, anything less will reduce braking performance and may/will lead to stuck pistons, seized brakes, and warped discs. They should go back in with thumb pressure only, if they don't then you probably need a rebuild now or soon. While you are there, clean the sliding pins and re-grease with red rubber grease or silicon grease. Do NOT use normal grease or the rubber boots will swell and split, leading to seized brakes, etc. Do NOT put copper grease on the pistons, it is bad for the brake seals, which will swell, leading to... if you must lubricate the pistons (not necessary) then use red rubber grease or LIGHT silicon grease, as this will only melt anyway.

Start blasting the exhaust nuts in plus gas now, and keep adding more as often as you can for as long as you can before you need to remove it. It doesn't matter if stud comes out with nut, but you will be upset if any snap! Always use 6-point sockets, deep sockets if you have them. Always fit back in with tons of copper grease.

That should cover your intentions. Good luck, these jobs are all easy but all may get tricky if something is corroded together. Remember, spending a little time or money on the right tools and equipment can save you LOTS of time and money compared to f*+king it up and having to do the hard job. E.G. I saved £8 once by buying pattern exhaust studs, but spent £80 and a whole day removing the engine, taking it to an engineer's shop, and getting the soft-as-cheese POS taken back out again!

[super bob]

Cheers guys am pretty confident on the spanners I used to be a bike mechanic when I left college but its always good to ask people who are in the know I'll keep you posted on how far I'v got over the weekend I just hope I can the fork seals tomorrow.

[amorti]

Cheers guys am pretty confident on the spanners I used to be a bike mechanic when I left college but its always good to ask people who are in the know I'll keep you posted on how far I'v got over the weekend I just hope I can the fork seals tomorrow.

Good stuff. In that case, nothing really unusual awaits you, just any normal problems of working in a 20-year old bike!

[super bob]

I'v had a pretty big weekend down the garage I got the front tire fitted saturday it was £88 what was the cheapest I could find I also got the exhuasts off no probs which was suprising as they hadnt seen a drop of grease so they have gone to my friend to be welded up for free hes pretty handy . I got the brake calipers stripped which was a good idear as the brake fluid had turned to jelly so new brake fluid in. Last job was getting the head bearings setup which has gone pretty well which leaves fork seals and body panels and brake pads.

[petrolhead19]

sounds like your doing alright mate.
keep up the good work

[super bob]

Cheers its getting there pretty quick tbh I stripped the carbs yesterday to see if the pilot jets were blocked as it has had a strange tickover since I bought it. sure enough the jets were pretty bad so I gave them a good clean out. I just need to see if I need new float boat gaskets if these leak or not. Another think that I was wondering is when you turn the bike on but before you press the start button should you hear the fuel pump engage.

[petrolhead19]

I've never known float bowl gaskets to leak i never had to change them anyways lol.
And no you wont hear the fuel pump prime, fuel pump runs when bike is running mate, best way to test it unplug it from loom should be a 2 pin plug, and run a live and earth to it and then you should hear it working :D

[The Novice]

mine used to pi55 out fuel, and due to the cost of new seals I used to seal them with hylomar blue untill cammo told me the following

Rick Oliver (member on here) sells o-ring replacements for about 7 quid a set of 4 for the nc30 carb float bowls (same fitment as nc23), they work well.

they do fit the nc23.