Idle drops on sidestand part 2
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Idle drops on sidestand part 2
Real problems starting the bike, choke out ran at 4k, put it back to 2k, then it cut out, right bastard to restart got it going eventually but it sounded a bit like it was missing or not firning right on one, then I remembered to turn the bloody fuel tap on!!!
Right try again, ran OK, so I thought I'd take it for only the 4th ride since I bought it home and two of those eneded with a call out to the RAC! No problems for most of it, then approaching a roundabout on the way home just as I stop it cuts out, FFS been here before!
Started it again, had to start it with a bit of throttle though, rode home, shitting myself at every junction, approach to roundabouts etc, my clutch control imnproved no end, although I imagine the clutch itself wasn't best happy at all that slipping.
Got home parked on the drive and thought I'd see what's going on. Sat on bike nice and upright, idles at around 1500, rev it, let it fall back and it returns nicely to 1500 99% of the time, very very occaissionally falls a tiny bit below but not bad.
On sidestand, do the same, but it returns to below 1500, sometimes even 1000 and thats when it cuts out.
Upped the idle just a bit and again on the sidestand it drops below 1500 but not far enough below to cut out.
So I assume its a carb set up issue somewhere?
Also a good few posts ago I mentioned the smoking exhaust problem, well when its cold and warming up it still smokes, however when fully warm, when the fans been in and out a good few times, no smoke. So I'm hoping the problems are reducing and I just need to sort the idling problem.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome
Ta

Right try again, ran OK, so I thought I'd take it for only the 4th ride since I bought it home and two of those eneded with a call out to the RAC! No problems for most of it, then approaching a roundabout on the way home just as I stop it cuts out, FFS been here before!
Started it again, had to start it with a bit of throttle though, rode home, shitting myself at every junction, approach to roundabouts etc, my clutch control imnproved no end, although I imagine the clutch itself wasn't best happy at all that slipping.
Got home parked on the drive and thought I'd see what's going on. Sat on bike nice and upright, idles at around 1500, rev it, let it fall back and it returns nicely to 1500 99% of the time, very very occaissionally falls a tiny bit below but not bad.
On sidestand, do the same, but it returns to below 1500, sometimes even 1000 and thats when it cuts out.
Upped the idle just a bit and again on the sidestand it drops below 1500 but not far enough below to cut out.
So I assume its a carb set up issue somewhere?
Also a good few posts ago I mentioned the smoking exhaust problem, well when its cold and warming up it still smokes, however when fully warm, when the fans been in and out a good few times, no smoke. So I'm hoping the problems are reducing and I just need to sort the idling problem.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome
Ta
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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
The smokes just condensation from lack of use then.
Maybe a sticking float valve... it's letting one of the carbs flood on the side-stand perhaps..
Maybe a sticking float valve... it's letting one of the carbs flood on the side-stand perhaps..
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
Bugger, its carbs out again then! Have you bought that NC30 and made that video yet?Neosophist wrote:The smokes just condensation from lack of use then.
Maybe a sticking float valve... it's letting one of the carbs flood on the side-stand perhaps..
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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
LOL. I'm guessing you never want to take your carbs off again OG&S?
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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
You are indeed correct!Hadies wrote:LOL. I'm guessing you never want to take your carbs off again OG&S?
I was actually looking forward to riding the bloody thing this Saturday, however instead I will be taking the seat cowl off, the tank off, the airbox off, the filters out, the tray off, the throttle cables off and the bloody. fecking bastard carb's off AGAIN!
And I found setting the float heights an absolute bastard last time as well

I'm beginning to lose the will............
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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
paitence is the key with carbs & floats steve!
you did use the float height tool i made you? i set that depth SPOT on so if the floats arent set right youll know because as you know the height isnt adjustable on the tool
you did use the float height tool i made you? i set that depth SPOT on so if the floats arent set right youll know because as you know the height isnt adjustable on the tool

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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
Patience is a virtue! I am not overly virtuousporndoguk wrote:paitence is the key with carbs & floats steve!
you did use the float height tool i made you? i set that depth SPOT on so if the floats arent set right youll know because as you know the height isnt adjustable on the tool

I did indeed use the tool you sent and I thought I got them spot on too, but I did find seeing if the needle valve was "just" seated quite difficult to spot. Probably bad eyesight

I guess I shall just have to go through the ritual of taking the carbs off yet again, actually removal is quite easy, setting up is not that difficult, but getting them back on again............ Well my "problems" on that score are well documented

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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
Hitting the carbs to seat them in the rubbers is bad practice as the float needle can be displaced causing flooding.
If all else fails when trying to refit the carbs, then coat rubbers and carb stubs with washing up liquid and the carbs will go straight on.
I don't use it as it leaves a white oxide powder that needs cleaning off next time the carbs are removed, I prefer to use silicon or rubber grease, but if all else fails it may be the lesser of the evils.
I recently fitted rc30 and nc30 carbs using the original old rubbers and both took 2 minutes after cables were connected, it is easy done the correct way but almost impossible the wrong way.
Dave.
If all else fails when trying to refit the carbs, then coat rubbers and carb stubs with washing up liquid and the carbs will go straight on.
I don't use it as it leaves a white oxide powder that needs cleaning off next time the carbs are removed, I prefer to use silicon or rubber grease, but if all else fails it may be the lesser of the evils.
I recently fitted rc30 and nc30 carbs using the original old rubbers and both took 2 minutes after cables were connected, it is easy done the correct way but almost impossible the wrong way.
Dave.
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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
Dave, I used red rubber grease, I had them lined up in place, eventually, and pressed down on them with my bodyweight before getting in there with the wooded block and rubber mallet. The idea being to make sure they were well seated.arsey30 wrote:Hitting the carbs to seat them in the rubbers is bad practice as the float needle can be displaced causing flooding.
If all else fails when trying to refit the carbs, then coat rubbers and carb stubs with washing up liquid and the carbs will go straight on.
I don't use it as it leaves a white oxide powder that needs cleaning off next time the carbs are removed, I prefer to use silicon or rubber grease, but if all else fails it may be the lesser of the evils.
I recently fitted rc30 and nc30 carbs using the original old rubbers and both took 2 minutes after cables were connected, it is easy done the correct way but almost impossible the wrong way.
Dave.
So please explain what is the "correct" way because I would appreciate knowing how to fit them in two minutes and I'm pretty sure I'm not alone on that score, in fact if I could fit them in 10 minutes I'd be bloody delighted

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Re: Idle drops on sidestand part 2
At last.. somebody else who can fit V4 carbs in a matter of minutes without using a sledgehammer!arsey30 wrote:Hitting the carbs to seat them in the rubbers is bad practice as the float needle can be displaced causing flooding.
If all else fails when trying to refit the carbs, then coat rubbers and carb stubs with washing up liquid and the carbs will go straight on.
I don't use it as it leaves a white oxide powder that needs cleaning off next time the carbs are removed, I prefer to use silicon or rubber grease, but if all else fails it may be the lesser of the evils.
I recently fitted rc30 and nc30 carbs using the original old rubbers and both took 2 minutes after cables were connected, it is easy done the correct way but almost impossible the wrong way.
Dave.
And OGS.. I'm picking up the 30 on Saturday! Woop!
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...