Engine removal - How difficult and how heavy?

Post by **oldgreyandslow** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:21 pm

Looks like I'll be attempting an engine out/swap sometime soon.

Studied Haynes book, doesn't look too difficult even for an old git, looks like I need a few special tools but I think Rick O does the one I need for £25 so not too bad.

Anything else I need to be aware of?

I assume its a two bloke job at the end getting it free?

Finally, how heavy? My bench is good for 175kg, don't really fancy having it land on the deck by mistake.

Post by **Man_Named_Dave** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:43 pm

The Haynes manual lists the dry weight as 175kg, so you should be ok, although the engine is obviously a hefty chunk of that.

Post by **Drunkn Munky** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:33 pm

Its a 1 man job, get everything free, jack under the engine, let it pivot forward on the lower rear mount, remove last remaining spindle and lower jack. Refitting is pretty much reversal of removal but id suggest a 2nd person if its your 1st time even if its just to save on skinned knuckles and swearing.

Oh and did i mention use a abba stand? worth there weight in gold

Chrissy_J · Post by **Chrissy_J** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 12:10 am

I've done it twice by myself; it's a bit of a workout, all right!
I have an NC21 BTW.

I made a platform with breeze blocks and a cupboard door, and, with the front exhaust pipes removed, I lifted the bike so the sump rested on it. With the front wheel now in the air I removed the whole front end, to be serviced later. This makes it easier to lift the frame off the engine.
I removed all engine bolts except the ones on the front cylinders which were loosened, then with those removed I lifted the frame up and over the engine, like tipping a wheelbarrow. I had to remove the thermostat housing to clear the RH frame downtube.
The engine will pitch forward so you need a thick cushion in front of it to fall on, or make the platform long enough to catch it. You can hold it up with your leg, but then you won't be able to move the chassis....

I left the engine on its platform because I wasn't doing anything to it except fitting new rear downpipes. It's possible to pick it up solo (I can, and I'm a girl!

) but don't go for a walk with it- there's a lot of motor in such a small package!

Refitting the engine is much the same procedure in reverse. Fit all the engine bolts loosely, then tighten each bolt (left and right-hands) equally. If you tighten as you install them the frame holes rebel, and won't match the engine holes...

code2006 · Post by **code2006** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 12:46 am

I have taken my nc35 engine out
It was quite heavy (didn't drain the oil lol)
I took and put the engine out by my self using the correct tools, a piece of wood and 2 jacks lol

Deadly_Viper · Post by **Deadly_Viper** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:08 am

I am halfway through removing my NC24 engine, I have removed the air box but not the carbs and most of the wiring that is attached to the engine. I will drain the coolant and remove the hoses next and I plan to use rope onto the frame and hoist the frame off the engine. Hopefully this will work, first time I have done it though. Need to get the heads off as one of the previous owners has damaged the threads on the exhaust ports and spark plug hole.

Post by **VFR400+** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 8:33 am

The engine is not as heavy as you'd think I took mine out with a mate but could have managed alone. Carried it upstairs to my flat by myself so not heavy more awkward. Was harder to refit, suggest a jack and block of wood.

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 9:31 am

It is not too difficult and it is not that heavy.

Post by **Neosophist** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 11:24 am

CMSMJ1 wrote:It is not too difficult and it is not that heavy.

Agreed, engine is only around 60kg, I can pick one up and walk around with it no problem.

What I tend to do is support the engine via a trolly jack and big block of wood.

Remove all engine mounting bolts and make sure I know where they come from, including spacers.

Lower the engine down on the trolly jack then lift the bike frame up and over the engine (back brake on and lift up / back)

Beware of coolant pipes / connects catching that you may have forgot to unscrew / unclip.

Drain coolant before starting.

Night before soak all engine mounting bolts in plenty of plus-gas.. they can be siezed and difficult to remove

Post by **CMSMJ1** » Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:40 pm

Neosophist wrote:
CMSMJ1 wrote:It is not too difficult and it is not that heavy.

Agreed, engine is only around 60kg, I can pick one up and walk around with it no problem.

What I tend to do is support the engine via a trolly jack and big block of wood.

Remove all engine mounting bolts and make sure I know where they come from, including spacers.

Lower the engine down on the trolly jack then lift the bike frame up and over the engine (back brake on and lift up / back)

Beware of coolant pipes / connects catching that you may have forgot to unscrew / unclip.

Drain coolant before starting.

Night before soak all engine mounting bolts in plenty of plus-gas.. they can be siezed and difficult to remove

Aye, when I biult my race bike I built the frame, shock and swinger onto the motor when it was sayt on my bench..and had to take it off there to put the rest of the bike on. By Jesus' hairy face, that was heavy!

I groaned it off the bench and staggered a few feet with it and placed it onto a TV stand with wheels I was using....it crushed the stand. I don't know what a motor, frame, shock and swinger weighs...but it was my limit for carrying stuff!