Thought this was some good initiative, I'm still wondering how to sync carbs and if I really want to have a go or not lol and through my researching I found this : http://www.deleveld.dds.nl/carbsync.htm

(I'd just buy gauges myself... )



One thing that puzzles me though is Haynes say you sync to Carb 1 on NC35's but I've read somewhere you set to Carb 2?

I'm thinking of a tool like this? - http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Synchr ... B004MSJ7E6

and trying to find a 90 degree'd flat head screw driver? so then i just take the side panels off and i should be able to reach everything? anyone got a picture of what the connection looks like you fit the hoses to....just so im sure and dont start unplugging random shite

I use a morgan carbtune, it is very accurate and easy to use.
If you have a look at their website Google "morgan carbtune" and look at accesories and you will see the 90deg screwdriver, well worth the money if you are planning on setting pilot screws or balancing the carbs on a V4

skinnydog0_0 wrote:I use a morgan carbtune, it is very accurate and easy to use.
If you have a look at their website Google "morgan carbtune" and look at accesories and you will see the 90deg screwdriver, well worth the money if you are planning on setting pilot screws or balancing the carbs on a V4

I live in SA it's hard to get anything bike specific most people drive here or offer you alternatives because they're all cheapo's but I can ask about morgan carbtune, failing that i'll try get brother still in UK to get me shit and send it so am I right, no need to remove tank, because all I see on video's etc is people moving the tank to get where they want, I don't want to do anything else just sync so do I need to remove anything but side panels?

If you are doing nc35 carbs, you can sync them with the tank on. Not sure about the 750 as never worked on one. I reckon if you call carbtune they would post them to SA. You can roughly set the carbs using feeler guages, but that means taking the carbs and tank off

skinnydog0_0 wrote:If you are doing nc35 carbs, you can sync them with the tank on. Not sure about the 750 as never worked on one. I reckon if you call carbtune they would post them to SA. You can roughly set the carbs using feeler guages, but that means taking the carbs and tank off

lol no I don't have a VFR750 lol was just pointing that clever DIY 4 cylinder gauge tool, should've added you can get bike stuff, if you live in Johannesburg(a family member picked me up an RS Taichi airflow jacket from there, so I can finally ride during south african midday heat!), but I don't live in Joburg so I suffer... I've seen people paying £40 for carb syncs by mechanics in UK, here will cost me equivalent of £102 minimum(thats no new parts needed, I'd hate for them to uncover stuff that needs doing)...

Morgan ship worldwide so you can get a compact handy carbtune from them.

Ignore the haynes book.

With the 4 carburettors youll have 3 adjustment screws, one of the carbs is fixed and cant be adjusted, this is what you adjust all of the others to match, although when you are adjusting them they will affect the fixed carb so you have to go around in a circle and do it a few times to get them synched.

Set the idle aroudn 1800 and let the engine warm up before you do it, if the fan comes on the engine is too hot so wait for it to cool before carrying on.

Which of the carbs is fixed though? I'll have a look tomorrow anyway not gonna do anything now, it rained today and it's night now (messed up a tank pad on a 2010 honda cbf125 i owned by doing it at night once lool was slightly squiff) I'll go see how much the carb sync tool is at a shop not far way they had the gauge ones i'll see if it has a damper on it as i know the needle ones flutter a lot if i do this I've got a camera that takes massive resolution images on close ups so I could maybe write what I did, I don't see an 'absolute' dummy guide anywhere for an NC35 exactly (from fairings on to bike sync'd) but we'll see I'm forgetful, so if i do forget I'm not doing it twice just to take pics!

brmoore wrote:Which of the carbs is fixed though? I'll have a look tomorrow anyway not gonna do anything now, it rained today and it's night now (messed up a tank pad on a 2010 honda cbf125 i owned by doing it at night once lool was slightly squiff) I'll go see how much the carb sync tool is at a shop not far way they had the gauge ones i'll see if it has a damper on it as i know the needle ones flutter a lot if i do this I've got a camera that takes massive resolution images on close ups so I could maybe write what I did, I don't see an 'absolute' dummy guide anywhere for an NC35 exactly (from fairings on to bike sync'd) but we'll see I'm forgetful, so if i do forget I'm not doing it twice just to take pics!

on a NC30 its cylinder 4 that is the fixed carb that you balance the others too, i think its the same on the 35 but will need a 35 owner to confirm this.

i made the one pictured above and my mate lent me his carb tuner and we both agreed the home made were more accurate but more fiddly to get right, because there more accurate. cost about £6-7 for the bits and just used them again to tune my bros r6.
It doesnt matter which carb is fixed as there is only 3 three adjusters (4 cylinder bike)

fit alternative fuel supply/raise tank (depending on what bike )

remove air box (depending on what bike )

raise the idle to 1800 ish

locate vaccum pipes (normally found under carbs coming out the engine block) should be blanked off during normal running

attach them to carb tuner, in line with the guages

before you go adjusting them make sure you use very light pressure on the screws other wise it will raise revs and mess it up
looking as if you are sat on bike (from left to right 1 being far left) locate first adjuster between carb 1+2
this is used to balance cylinder 1+2 out. get these level

then got to adjuster between 3+4 and adjust these level

then go between 2+3 carb and adjust 1+2 to 3+4, which should bring all four inline/level

blip the throttle

this will need to be done at least a couple of times to get it 100%

not got a clue on a 2cyl tho but cant imagine it would be much different

I've just check and for some reason it's cheaper to get a better carb tuner imported from UK then to buy the cheapo one here

So I'm guessing it's standard then to have to remove loads of shit(which I don't wanna do) if you're using homemade stuff, because a commercial one provides extensions so you don't need to take anything but side panels off?