Nc30 and nc35 clutches

[spongy.bob]

Are the clutches for nc30's and nc35'c interchangable? Do they need any modifications to do it?

[skinnydog0_0]

Providing you use the whole unit you can interchange them. I have a 35 one in a 30 engine casing.

[amaechizzle]

And the point of it would be?

[CRM]

And the point of it would be?

No point as such, just depends on what's available or to hand !

[spongy.bob]

And the point of it would be?

ye, what is the point?!

[skinnydog0_0]

It's a while since i changed mine over, but i think the 35 has one more friction plate, and it sure feels smoother than the 30 one i had in the engine before. But that may just be from the 30 one being older. When i get time i will check them against each other (unless someone else can answer for sure) and save me digging out the old one

[spongy.bob]

I'm told the '35 has one less steel plate, but they are thicker. There you go, saved you a job!

[skinnydog0_0]

I'm told the '35 has one less steel plate, but they are thicker. There you go, saved you a job!

Thanks

[speedy231278]

Holy thread resurrection, Batman...! Due to a seller's error, I am now in possession of an NC30 clutch when the intention was to acquire an NC35 one. Skinnydog says above that he's got a 35 clutch in a 30, however I'm just a little paranoid about what I might find if for some reason I need to use this clutch in my bike. Ideally, I'd rebuild the existing one, however let's assume for some reason some or all of it becomes a throw in the bin job.

I've read in other places that some people have swapped the clutches and parts thereof between the two models quite happily (as above) but I've also read that other people have had issues with the clutch lift plate fouling the inside of the clutch cover. Anyone who tinkers with these clutches on a regular basis will know that there are some differences in the plate stack, but everything else is in essence unchanged. I figure that this difference might be a factor when trying to put a complete NC30 spec clutch into an NC35, however I'd be very happy if someone tells me they've done it and it's been very happy.

First, the difference in the plates. The NC30 has 10 friction and 9 steel plates, the NC35 has 9 and 8 respectively, and the latter are different. According to Mike Lohmeyer's page, both bikes use 3.06mm fritction plates. The steel plates in the NC30 are 1.58mm, and those in the 35 are 1.98. This gives a total height of 44.82mm for the NC30, and 43.38 for the NC35. Granted, that's a mere 1.44mm, and I owuld have thought that there'd be far more clearance than that between the top pressure plate and the engine case during operation, but then I've never had this part of the bike apart myself....

I then decided to compare the other parts of the clutch. I found 8 parts to have different numbers. Some indicate minor revisions, and others indicate that some of different parts were altered specifically for the NC35 and did not supercede the NC30 part (although I suppose that does not necessarily mean that they cannot be used on one, usually it's a sign that they are different enough to warrant a bigger step in number).

The outer clutch basket went from 22100-ML0-010 to 020, which is listed as having superceded the NC30 part. In both cases they are additionally listed as being superceded by a part number ending in 505, so it is safe to suggest that either bike's outer basket can be used on wither model.

The top pressure plate went from 22351-MR8-013 to 023, and is a supercession, so again I conclude that either may be used.

Both upper and lower inner baskets, the spring seat, springs, inner one-way clutch and the clutch operating rod have part numbers ending 000 or 010 on the NC30 and 900 or 901 on the NC35. This usually indicates a model specific change that is not usually backward compatible. This leads me to wonder if the springs are a slightly different thickness or internal diameter (the external must be the same as the pressure plate they sit in is the same part on both bikes). Also, might the two inner clutch baskets be slightly different heights to take into account the different thicknesses of the clutch plates? I'm presuming it's also why the hefty collar that goes inside the one-way clutch is a major part number change as well.

I'm just thinking that IF that 1.44mm difference in the plate stack was a enough that it would foul the clutch cover on the NC35, that simply putting the NC35 plate stack in an NC30 clutch might cause issues with the operation of the inner basket parts.

Yes, it's all yet another one of my bored afternoon musings, but when you literally have nothing useful to do at work for six months you tend to find lots to think about... lol

[Neosophist]

I think you think too much.

ML0 is an NC2x part number.

The outer clutch basket is more or less the same for all NC13E engines.

Providing you change everything it should fit no problems, you can even put the NC30 clutch in the NC24 / vice versa.

If you start mixing and matching 30 / 35 plates then you might run into problems, i believe you can make the clutch pack too thick.. Changing everything shouldnt be a problem.

Are your steels broken? ive always found it better to buy a new set of friction plates than some second hand unkown condition clutch..