Procedure for Replacing Brake Lines + Calipers...

[silentRVF]

Hey guys,

HOPEFULLY I receive my new braided lines tomorrow, and I've had my SP2 calipers sitting here for a while now.

Would this be the correct procedure for removing my standard brake lines + calipers and installing the SP2 lines + calipers?

(The front wheel and fender are off so I don't get fluid on them.)

1) Make sure the new lines will fit okay (Should they have a bit of play in them?)
2) Disconnect the standard lines from the calipers and stick the lines in a bucket of water and let all the old fluid flow out (will all the fluid flow out by itself or will I need to keep pumping the lever?)
3) Unbolt the old lines from the master cylinder and their ugly mounting positions.
4) Bolt the new lines onto the master cylinder and the calipers
5) Pour new fluid into the reservoir
6) Open bleed nipples on calipers and let the fluid flow down until it starts coming out of the bleed nipples (Again, will I need to pump the fluid down at this stage?)
7) One caliper at a time, connect clear hose onto the bleed nipple, pump the lever to build up pressure, open nipple until lever is almost at bar, pump again, open nipple etc until no air bubbles.
8) Burn crappy original brake lines

Am I missing anything?

I've seen some videos where they bleed the master cylinder as well.. Does the RVF even have a bleed nipple at the m/c, and will I need to do this as well?


Thanks guys :)

[superlite]

Sounds like a good start, but you'll definitely need the front wheel on to bleed them Jonno

The fluid won't 'flow' by itself - in or out. You need to apply pressure (through the lever, or syringe, etc.) to get the fluid to go where you want it. Sometimes the hardest part is getting the fluid in there to start with. Once it's in, you shouldn't have any problems bleeding them. Some brakes can be a bitch though!

[silentRVF]

Sounds like a good start, but you'll definitely need the front wheel on to bleed them Jonno

The fluid won't 'flow' by itself - in or out. You need to apply pressure (through the lever, or syringe, etc.) to get the fluid to go where you want it. Sometimes the hardest part is getting the fluid in there to start with. Once it's in, you shouldn't have any problems bleeding them. Some brakes can be a bitch though!

Hey Alister,

Whoops forgot to mention this part. Will probably put a piece of flat steel in between the pads while bleeding.

So to get the fluid flowing, should I try pumping the lever to build up pressure then open the bleed nipple? And if this doesn't work, does the syringe just connect to the bleed nipple?

Cheers

[mick.mh2racing]

Disassemble everything.
Reassemble everything as you want it.

Get a syringe and attach a piece of rubber and attach to it. Attach this piece of rubber to the bleed nipple and pump the lever about a dozen times. Open the bleed nipple and pull back on the syringe to pull the air out. Close bleed nipple. Repeat for about an hour for both calipers.

Yes you seem to be making no progress and you'll ask yourself if you're doing something wrong. Perservere and it'll be sorted eventually.

[veefer400]

Replaced the brake lines on the front of my NC23, eventually got them to bleed through but getting a lot of bubbles thro still? Gave up, tied the brake lever back in an "on" position to the bars and left it like that overnight.

Perfect solid brakes in the morning.

[Drunkn Munky]

Can i suggest i mitivac, i know there £40 and dont do much more than a syringe but they make the job quick and most of all clean. I reckon i could drain the system, remove and fit new lines then re bleed all 3 lines in 10 - 15 mins tops. If your planning on doing it a lot then it'll pay for it self in no time, personally everybike i get either gets the rubber lines binned or the system bleed atleast if it already has braided lines.

oh and also no need to remove the wheel or anythinig else as you wont spill a drop