NC30 Pilot Screws
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NC30 Pilot Screws
Do the pilot screws only affect the idle or do they play a role in the A/F ratio of the bike?
Also, a setting of 2.0 is lean and 2.5 is richening the mix or have I got it the wrong way round?
Also, a setting of 2.0 is lean and 2.5 is richening the mix or have I got it the wrong way round?
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Re: NC30 Pilot Screws
Pilot screws will affect the entire rev-range to a small extent. However there mainly adjusting idle mixture.
NC30? Out is richer.
2.0 isn't necessairly lean either it's the stock setting. :-)
Are you having troubles?
NC30? Out is richer.
2.0 isn't necessairly lean either it's the stock setting. :-)
Are you having troubles?
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...
- Cammo
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Re: NC30 Pilot Screws
Pilot screws affect the idle and off-idle performance (e.g. pulling away at very low revs).
Pretty sure the recommended setting if you have an aftermarket pipe or other mods is 2.25 turns out.
Pretty sure the recommended setting if you have an aftermarket pipe or other mods is 2.25 turns out.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
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Re: NC30 Pilot Screws
I,m not having any kind of major problems, it's just that she's running rich everywhere.
I've got 118f/120r jetting with a 1/2 Ethos system and a Tyga C/F end can (no baffle or db killer), pilots at 2.25 out, needles shimmed. I've only just fitted the Tyga can 'cause the original Ethos can was overly restrictive and was causing her to run even richer. I thought the straight thru Tyga would sort the problem but it dosen't seem to have.
I plan on removing the needle shims and bringing the jets back to 115/118 so I was wondering if bringing the pilots back to 2.0 would help also? Last dyno figures said she had an A/F ratio of 11.0 average (with the Ethos can) This might be a bit better now with the Tyga but I know it's still not perfect.
Any views?
I've got 118f/120r jetting with a 1/2 Ethos system and a Tyga C/F end can (no baffle or db killer), pilots at 2.25 out, needles shimmed. I've only just fitted the Tyga can 'cause the original Ethos can was overly restrictive and was causing her to run even richer. I thought the straight thru Tyga would sort the problem but it dosen't seem to have.
I plan on removing the needle shims and bringing the jets back to 115/118 so I was wondering if bringing the pilots back to 2.0 would help also? Last dyno figures said she had an A/F ratio of 11.0 average (with the Ethos can) This might be a bit better now with the Tyga but I know it's still not perfect.
Any views?
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Re: NC30 Pilot Screws
Forgot to mention, she's a 93 model with standard induction.
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Re: NC30 Pilot Screws
You don't live up a mountain do you?
This is NC30 carbs too, not 35?
It is going to be a ballache of trial and error dude...
I went from 112 all round on my std NC30 through a can and 115/118 and then a Yamamoto to RVF carbs and 120/120..then removed my airbox lid...lots of ballache with shims and jets - ended up on 130/130 and a lovely power curve.
This was with probably 4 other systems too...
All done the ballache way of riding it and making solid notes in the head of what it did. ride it home, whip the carbs off, go out again and do it again. I made big enough adjustments so that I knew I needed to go one way or the other.
When I went to the open carbs - I went to 124/126 - super lean. so I gave it 135/135 - super rich...hit 130/130 and then it was bogging in the midrange...so off with a shim and now it is good.
It was easier to type this than do it...but it has to be done. Or you pay someone £150 to sort it on a dyno...as long as they are not a muppet..
This is NC30 carbs too, not 35?
It is going to be a ballache of trial and error dude...
I went from 112 all round on my std NC30 through a can and 115/118 and then a Yamamoto to RVF carbs and 120/120..then removed my airbox lid...lots of ballache with shims and jets - ended up on 130/130 and a lovely power curve.
This was with probably 4 other systems too...
All done the ballache way of riding it and making solid notes in the head of what it did. ride it home, whip the carbs off, go out again and do it again. I made big enough adjustments so that I knew I needed to go one way or the other.
When I went to the open carbs - I went to 124/126 - super lean. so I gave it 135/135 - super rich...hit 130/130 and then it was bogging in the midrange...so off with a shim and now it is good.
It was easier to type this than do it...but it has to be done. Or you pay someone £150 to sort it on a dyno...as long as they are not a muppet..

IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate