Lightweight racing batterys
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- STYLER
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
for drunkn munky - im going to put mine some where coolnear the back of the tail faring but i hoping to re-design my nc fairing completely so ill wait till thats done to see where i have space
Im no expert, but Maviryk designs cell batteries use the same design as my battery and he thinks there is no major difference between the old style a123 dewalt cells and the new style a123 cells that are wrapped in green heat shrink. The new green coloured cells will be used inside speed cell, racing batteries, durbahn packs.
If you read the link to Maviryk designs packs ( http://www.customfighters.com/forums/sh ... hp?t=31183 ) that i put up on the first post!! he answers a lot of FAQ. He says you dont need ballancers as the bikes reg/rec monitors the power and ive heard reports of other people who have used these style of batteries with ballancers for years without any problems. I am not saying this the best way of making batteries though it just my observations from a bit of research.
The battery packs sold by mark white in Performace bikes below dont have ballancers:

Old design using my type cells.

New design with new type cells in the latest issue of PB magazine.
I think the cells only loose 10% of there charge every year it unused!! Adding ballancers can only be a good thing though in my opinion but ill take a gamble as my packs were dirt cheap and if my bike doesnt blow up ill probably crash it anyway!!
You can tell me im totally wrong.... i usually am
Tanto, ive only started my bike few times with ease and the battery didnt get warm, but it will need to be well protected and stored in a very cool place, ideally a vented area away from the engine as it will no doubt get quite warm otherwise. I know i shouldnt have posted my info until i have tested it properly, but its a hot topic at the moment and i wont get to test the battery for a long time as ive got lots to do to me bike!
PS: thanks for the Karma.. it made my day :peacme bike
Right.. so who's going to open their Harris racing battery when they get it for us all to sneak a peak inside!!! ha
Im no expert, but Maviryk designs cell batteries use the same design as my battery and he thinks there is no major difference between the old style a123 dewalt cells and the new style a123 cells that are wrapped in green heat shrink. The new green coloured cells will be used inside speed cell, racing batteries, durbahn packs.
If you read the link to Maviryk designs packs ( http://www.customfighters.com/forums/sh ... hp?t=31183 ) that i put up on the first post!! he answers a lot of FAQ. He says you dont need ballancers as the bikes reg/rec monitors the power and ive heard reports of other people who have used these style of batteries with ballancers for years without any problems. I am not saying this the best way of making batteries though it just my observations from a bit of research.
The battery packs sold by mark white in Performace bikes below dont have ballancers:

Old design using my type cells.

New design with new type cells in the latest issue of PB magazine.
I think the cells only loose 10% of there charge every year it unused!! Adding ballancers can only be a good thing though in my opinion but ill take a gamble as my packs were dirt cheap and if my bike doesnt blow up ill probably crash it anyway!!

You can tell me im totally wrong.... i usually am


Tanto, ive only started my bike few times with ease and the battery didnt get warm, but it will need to be well protected and stored in a very cool place, ideally a vented area away from the engine as it will no doubt get quite warm otherwise. I know i shouldnt have posted my info until i have tested it properly, but its a hot topic at the moment and i wont get to test the battery for a long time as ive got lots to do to me bike!
PS: thanks for the Karma.. it made my day :peacme bike
Right.. so who's going to open their Harris racing battery when they get it for us all to sneak a peak inside!!! ha
Last edited by STYLER on Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
Wow just been looking into the RC battery world a bit, and i didnt realise how much it had moved on since having matched nicad packs(i drifted into IC cars)! There so much info it gonna take a while to research. Thanks for the good links and info.
I was think of making a special ballencer so it would balence cells while they were been charge from the bike and save having to balence them properly once a week or whenever.
I've sort of come up with a simple charging balencer but cant figure out a way to make it handle the reverse starting current yet! Dont suppose anybody know wat current the starter pulls when cranking?
Cheers
Ian
I was think of making a special ballencer so it would balence cells while they were been charge from the bike and save having to balence them properly once a week or whenever.
I've sort of come up with a simple charging balencer but cant figure out a way to make it handle the reverse starting current yet! Dont suppose anybody know wat current the starter pulls when cranking?
Cheers
Ian
- fourfingers
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
DIY A123
http://www.slkelectronics.com/ecalc/index.htm#care
The main point in balancing cells is for longer life. The only problem arises when one cell charges faster than the rest of the pack, 3 cells at 3v one cell at +4V. This happens all the time with nicad nimh chemestries, and charge excess is transformed into heat.
http://www.slkelectronics.com/ecalc/index.htm#care
The main point in balancing cells is for longer life. The only problem arises when one cell charges faster than the rest of the pack, 3 cells at 3v one cell at +4V. This happens all the time with nicad nimh chemestries, and charge excess is transformed into heat.
- tanto
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
We really do need to know how much current is drawn on starting.Morespeedvicar wrote:Dont suppose anybody know wat current the starter pulls when cranking?
Cheers
Ian
I got a reply from Dale at EP Buddy, who said, "The maximum output current we have tested for a single A123 cell is around 180A on the condition that the battery is shorted. I really doubt a 4S1P pack can meet your requirement. Even though the pack can reach such a high rate, the life of batteries will be significantly shorted."
It goes back to the current needed to start the NC30/35. The Haynes manual doesn't give any measurements, neither does the Honda Service Manual. Has anyone got any measurements? (I'd do it myself but my bike is stripped down beyond starting.

"A slipping gear could let your M203 grenade launcher fire when you least expect it. That would make you quite unpopular in what's left of your unit." - US Army manual of preventive maintenance.
- CMSMJ1
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
IMPERATOR REX ANGLORUM
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
The V4 is the law..
NC30 - No9 - my old mate
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
Has anyone carried on with making a lightweight battery from a dewalt unit?
Does the Nc charging system cope ok with recharging these? I was just thinking that the regulator on the bike is weak anyway.
What about the balancing? I notice on the Durbahn website they recommend balancing 3 or 4 times a year.
As a side note, I'd replaced my rear shock with a Honda RS250 racing unit which was re-sprung/re-valved. Downside is that it's reservoir goes straight through the battery box. I'd previously turned the battery sideways, but to be honest it's a pain in the backside to remove. With that thought I've just managed to get a 36v dewalt battery off ebay for £50.
If this system works then I can put the battery under the pillion seat for easy removal, probs with a quick disconnect plug...
Just concerned about the recharging amps and balancing. Any info from those in know would be great.
Does the Nc charging system cope ok with recharging these? I was just thinking that the regulator on the bike is weak anyway.
What about the balancing? I notice on the Durbahn website they recommend balancing 3 or 4 times a year.
As a side note, I'd replaced my rear shock with a Honda RS250 racing unit which was re-sprung/re-valved. Downside is that it's reservoir goes straight through the battery box. I'd previously turned the battery sideways, but to be honest it's a pain in the backside to remove. With that thought I've just managed to get a 36v dewalt battery off ebay for £50.
If this system works then I can put the battery under the pillion seat for easy removal, probs with a quick disconnect plug...



Just concerned about the recharging amps and balancing. Any info from those in know would be great.
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
Hi just following this thread with interest and someone mentioned cranking current. I whipped out the service manual for my thundercat motor and found a power rating for the starter(0.7kw)
this could very easily be wrong buuut.
Power(W)= Volts(V)xCurrent(A)
so A=P/V
Current =700/12
=58.333Amps
Which seems in the right ballpark....but dont take it as gospel.....discuss
this could very easily be wrong buuut.
Power(W)= Volts(V)xCurrent(A)
so A=P/V
Current =700/12
=58.333Amps
Which seems in the right ballpark....but dont take it as gospel.....discuss

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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
Had some experience with these batteries, having run first generation durbahns for about 3 years (how time slips away). They charge just fine from the NC, they really REALLY don't like heat and they will attempt to start (dodgy sparkplugs) the bike relentlessly 20-25 times before going flat (try that with 2.3Ah lead-acid battery). So well recommended.
But anderson plugs (quick high amp disconnects) are crap, they are not for continuous use and will fall apart at the most inconvenient times.
Ronni
But anderson plugs (quick high amp disconnects) are crap, they are not for continuous use and will fall apart at the most inconvenient times.
Ronni
- Drunkn Munky
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
Ronni, so those anderson plugs are fine so long as they dont keep disconecting them?
Is it worth getting the charger and balancer for these durbahn batterys or are they fine charging off the NC(GSXR) charging system?
Is it worth getting the charger and balancer for these durbahn batterys or are they fine charging off the NC(GSXR) charging system?
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Re: Lightweight racing batterys
And I was just pricing up some 175amp anderson plugs on ebay........
Ronni, do you know of any better alternatives?
Ronni, when you say they really don't like heat, do you think they would be ok under the pillion seat?
Do you carry out balance charges on them 3 times a year as they recommend??
urgh... just seen dm has asked the same question. I
Ronni, do you know of any better alternatives?
Ronni, when you say they really don't like heat, do you think they would be ok under the pillion seat?
Do you carry out balance charges on them 3 times a year as they recommend??
urgh... just seen dm has asked the same question. I
