Growler wrote:Is this something you can do yourself? and if so any instructions would be gratefully received... Have the welder poised and ready to go as I type!!!

Growler, you just need to weld up the old hole and drill a new one 8mm (centre-centre measurement) further down. Measure where it needs to be first as you won't be able to find the centre of the old hole when it's welded and filed smooth!

You only need to weld the standard hole up as the new one will slightly run into it if it was left there.

Cheers Stickshift,

Was amazed at how straight forward it was! Only took half an hour and worked a treat! Thanks agian guys... Top class advice as always!

Growler wrote: Was amazed at how straight forward it was! Only took half an hour and worked a treat!

What do you think of the handling difference?

bit off topic guys but would a rs250 shock bolt straight on and give higher ride height?

what year rs would i need to source off, just a guy i knows breaking one and i could snap it up depending on year :)

cheers

Short answer is no... do a search man..but you will need it rebuilt, a fettle of the linkages and then you need to swap springs at least..

worth it though

What do you think of the handling difference?

Would you believe I've owned the bike 6 months and not ridden it yet! D day is close but its been an on going project. Wasn't in a rideable condition when I bought it. The dog bone mod was something I was advised to do when I bought the bike as its been rebuilt on a budget so a new shock was out of the question. Looking forward to the maiden voyage soon...

it will change the rising rate of the rear linkage, making it more progressive (it'll be stiffer as it compresses).
I wouldnt go but maybe 2 mm shorter if you're staying with a 18" rear wheel.

I have shortend mine on the RVF by 2mm and it's made the back end work tremendously different (and for the better). 2mm ads 6mm of ride height, so it will tip in a bit better as well (or possibly too much)

on the length difference between the rvf and vfr pull rods (dog bones), I measured the difference at 5mm (rvf being shorter)

are you guys adding 3mm to this or have I mis-measured?

duh_ave wrote:on the length difference between the rvf and vfr pull rods (dog bones), I measured the difference at 5mm (rvf being shorter)

are you guys adding 3mm to this or have I mis-measured?

That's right.

See Rick's post above: with 8mm shorter (over std nc30), it equates to about 10mm shock height increase, which equates to 35mm ride height increase to give you better geometry.

This figure is good for an nc30 even still using the 18" wheel, (much!) better turn in not a great deal of loss of stability.


On the rvf you can gain ride height by using spacers on top of the shock, not so on nc30's so this is the cheapest way to increase it.

Stickshift wrote:

duh_ave wrote:on the length difference between the rvf and vfr pull rods (dog bones), I measured the difference at 5mm (rvf being shorter)

are you guys adding 3mm to this or have I mis-measured?

That's right.

See Rick's post above: with 8mm shorter (over std nc30), it equates to about 10mm shock height increase, which equates to 35mm ride height increase to give you better geometry.

This figure is good for an nc30 even still using the 18" wheel, (much!) better turn in not a great deal of loss of stability.


On the rvf you can gain ride height by using spacers on top of the shock, not so on nc30's so this is the cheapest way to increase it.

thanks, I understand the ride height effects and how to adjust them; I posted something up on modifying the pull rod a while back actually.
I'm just curious if the diff is 5mm and Rick is adding another 3mm to get extra height/ linkage progression or if I measured the stock links incorrectly.