Supercharging

[Morespeedvicar]

I don't think you could get one turbo to work very well a 400, let alone two, they would have to be mega small and prob have to make them for scratch. Honda had a job turboing th cx and had to bore that to 650 so they could get rid of the lag. A screw (eaton) type compressor is your best bet, it doesn't matter if its using power, turbos use power aswell, as they always generate more back pressure than they do boost so nothings free.
A small blower off a mini car and a pulley off the crank end would be interesting. Maybe even run it draw through if time and money is tight.
Cheers
Ian

[CHR15]

eaton blowers (m45 / 62 / 90) are roots type.

the 45 thats fitted to mini's would be way too big for a 400, more suited to a 800-1000cc bike engine.

heres a mitsubishi td25





attached to a cg125 thats bored out to 200cc

[xivlia]

sorry didnt read the whole thing, so this may have been mentioned before....

Superchargers are belt driven.... but the VFR 400 is neither belt or chain driven, it is gear driven? so how will you drive the SC? or am i totally wrong as usual?

[porndoguk]

sorry didnt read the whole thing, so this may have been mentioned before....

Superchargers are belt driven.... but the VFR 400 is neither belt or chain driven, it is gear driven? so how will you drive the SC? or am i totally wrong as usual?

You put a pulley on the crank :S

[Drunkn Munky]

sorry didnt read the whole thing, so this may have been mentioned before....

Superchargers are belt driven.... but the VFR 400 is neither belt or chain driven, it is gear driven? so how will you drive the SC? or am i totally wrong as usual?

You put a pulley on the crank :S

Cable tie should hold it

[speedy231278]

Maybe you could put it next to the rear wheel and use that to drive the pulley?

[SCAT]

Thank you for the different compressor suggestions.
I will be looking into the Rotex, however since I currently have the AMR from subaru in hand... It also seems very much fitted. I will post it's details soon.

As for the drive, obviously off the crank. The question is how to drive it out of the case:
I reckon the best bet is to follow the work done by A&A.

As for ignition systems, would it be possible to rip one off a more modern engine? if so which one, or does it even matter? If i'm not mistaken the upgrade to electric ignition was from the VFR750 to VFR800, but would that be suitable?

As for cooling: I understand that pulling a wheelie on the bike drains the oil to the back 2 cylinders leading the front two to die. Since this engine will be sat still, corner Gforce will push the oil from side to side.
according to http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/V4_cams.html
''The oil system picks up oil from the sump through a strainer and routes it two ways. One goes to the filter and from there to the crankshaft. The other goes to a T joint where one branch goes to the transmission and the other splits again to feed each cylinder head. Therefore the oil is not as clean as it could be. [...] On the whole, adequate oil pressure is not developed below about 3000 to 3500 rpm. Therefore, there is often not enough oil getting to the heads. ''
Is this cause for worry?

Pictures coming soon

[CHR15]

As for ignition systems, would it be possible to rip one off a more modern engine? if so which one, or does it even matter? If i'm not mistaken the upgrade to electric ignition was from the VFR750 to VFR800, but would that be suitable?

ignitech do a very clever little ignition unit that works off a crank sensor and either map or tps sensor to give you a 10x10 ignition map.

or you can just run it off a crank sensor to give a custom 10 point curve.

the whole thing inc postage from the czech republic is like 140 quid. bargin.

as for oil. if theres no ground clearance issues, weld a pan onto the bottom of the sump and extend the pick up down into it.

or weld a bulkhead fitting into the sump, make a new pickup with a hose barb on it, use flex hose to join the two together and run a dry sump with external baffled tank. all you need is a boss welded to the bottom of the stock sump and a large vdo pump to return the oil to the external tank.

[Neosophist]

I should think the oil would be fine. That oil story is for the VF series of engines, old magna / sabres, which is why their cams all died.

The VFR800 has a conventional 180 degree firing order, like the NC21 / NC24 which why it has 4 coils, the 360 firing order of the NC30 means it can run only 2 coils and have a wasted spark.

This is interseting though...

A VFR400 NC24 engine might be a good starting point if you plan on doing this.. it uses the same firing order and has an oil-cooler built right in.

Makes the same HP as the NC30 engine and the tappets are adjustable so there are no shims, so you can get that valve clearance setup right.

Also the NC24 engine should be cheaper than the 30, my last engine cost 20 quid

They are both NC13E engines.

[speedy231278]

Just thought about the drive for the supercharger. Seeing as the engine is for a track project, could you not remove the speedo drive and fashion an assembly that fits onto the same mounting points and has the pulley on the outside of it?

Edit: hang on, no good in neutral, sprocket stops moving, engine will suffocate unless you can bypass the thing... lol