Road to Track to Race
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
- matty_boy
- Settled in member
- Posts: 208
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 11:19 am
- Bike owned: Fitness bike
- Location: Norwich, Norfolk
Re: Road to Track to Race
Yes mate they will fit. As they are not radials, now if i could have got radials for £50 i would have made them fit.

The bits for my race bike are collecting.

The bits for my race bike are collecting.
- mrdidlydingo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:41 pm
- Bike owned: NC29, 30, 35, RDLC, GSXR
Re: Road to Track to Race
I've usually found that the fronts on the vfr are okay so long as there the later (black finish) ones, how much is dictated by the rules as to what you can change etc ?
Braided lines already sourced from a fussy mate who swapped his off his blade as they were dirty or something equally stoopid !!! (shouldn't complain good saving on purchase price)
Presume by good pads people are referring to the EBC brand these seem to get good ratings from most people who use them.
Have re-routed the rear through the swing arm I realise this is not a neccesity but cleans the whole affair up !
So braking and suspension aside what areas are next to improve, I gotta thank you guys btw although some of the previous suggestions are already done or in planning its nice at least to know your heading in the right direction.
The guy (2nd attempt) is collecting my engine soon and I also need to point him in the right direction, my thoughts were to lightn and balance the whole affair and reduce the rotating mass as much as possible (total loss etc) there a lot on here about the heads which seem to be key to power from the VFR, obviously I'm looking for reliability first but if theres power to be had it may as well be extracted :D
Also whats the deal with swapping the tacho and temp gauges to SRI equipment ? accuracy ? weight ??? whats the deal ?
The other thing I dont really understand is the rad upgrades is this going to be neccesary has anyone run without them then added them whats the difference ?
Braided lines already sourced from a fussy mate who swapped his off his blade as they were dirty or something equally stoopid !!! (shouldn't complain good saving on purchase price)
Presume by good pads people are referring to the EBC brand these seem to get good ratings from most people who use them.
Have re-routed the rear through the swing arm I realise this is not a neccesity but cleans the whole affair up !
So braking and suspension aside what areas are next to improve, I gotta thank you guys btw although some of the previous suggestions are already done or in planning its nice at least to know your heading in the right direction.
The guy (2nd attempt) is collecting my engine soon and I also need to point him in the right direction, my thoughts were to lightn and balance the whole affair and reduce the rotating mass as much as possible (total loss etc) there a lot on here about the heads which seem to be key to power from the VFR, obviously I'm looking for reliability first but if theres power to be had it may as well be extracted :D
Also whats the deal with swapping the tacho and temp gauges to SRI equipment ? accuracy ? weight ??? whats the deal ?
The other thing I dont really understand is the rad upgrades is this going to be neccesary has anyone run without them then added them whats the difference ?
- mrdidlydingo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:41 pm
- Bike owned: NC29, 30, 35, RDLC, GSXR
Re: Road to Track to Race
Spike16 wrote: if you dont mind me asking how much do you weigh? I was gona get the rick o kit for my bike that i will be racing this year but as im only 9 1/2 stone was recomended just to rebuild the forks first, then see about upgrade
Mate I'm about ten and a half stone does this fit into the "Don't need upgrade category" according to the conversation you had ?
The reason I ask about the upgrade is that the VFR tends to be a little soft I presumed it was an upgrade to combat this ?
-
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1670
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:56 pm
- Bike owned: NC30 Road, SV650 Race
- Location: Hampshire, Wichester
Re: Road to Track to Race
yeh you might be best off rebuilding then, i have mine setup pritty stiff but thats on tired old suspension and my weight so i recon a rebuild should be enough for me, if you find it soft now your probably best to rebuil, you go tot think in full gear you gona be almost 12 stone which is a fair bit more than the wee jap bloke the suspension was originally designed for
- Cammo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 4505
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 12:35 am
- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Road to Track to Race
A fork spring upgrade is nearly essesntial for the track IMO, shouldn't cost too much. Rick O's springs get good reviews.
At nearly 20 years old most of the standard springs in these bikes will be cactus.
At nearly 20 years old most of the standard springs in these bikes will be cactus.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
- mrdidlydingo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:41 pm
- Bike owned: NC29, 30, 35, RDLC, GSXR
Re: Road to Track to Race
Makes sense when put like that, fork upgrade here we come !
- Cammo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 4505
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 12:35 am
- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Road to Track to Race
I would forget lightening and balancing. Very little gains for lots of money, same with the head work. Working on the heads might liberate a couple of hp, but it's not worth it unless you have a top shelf motor and trying to extract every last pony out of it.mrdidlydingo wrote: The guy (2nd attempt) is collecting my engine soon and I also need to point him in the right direction, my thoughts were to lightn and balance the whole affair and reduce the rotating mass as much as possible (total loss etc) there a lot on here about the heads which seem to be key to power from the VFR, obviously I'm looking for reliability first but if theres power to be had it may as well be extracted :D
Best to keep it simple. A good half or full exhaust system will be the single best engine mod (jetted to suit). Keep the standard airbox setup and standard filter, mucking around with these will get you in trouble quick if you're not familiar with the engines. You won't gain anything by messing with these parts, just screw up the power delivery. If you really feel the need to modify teh induction, go for a ram air set up by a professional V4 tuner.
It might be worthwhile for your guy to remove the quitening gears, pretty simple and can liberate a couple of hp. Raising compression can also see gains, but I wouldn't trust anyone but a V4 guru to do this because of the gear driven cams. An adjustable CDI would round off a decent package without costing the earth.
Keep it simple and you'll probably see 95% of the engine's potential while costing a shedload less than trying to achieve 100%.
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
- mrdidlydingo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:41 pm
- Bike owned: NC29, 30, 35, RDLC, GSXR
Re: Road to Track to Race
Usually Lighten and Balance most engines I have built, I'm not talking rod polishing and knife edging type of fuggery but just to make sure everythings within a nice tolerance.
That said I much appreciate your advice what you say makes sense, where the money should be spent is therefore on pipes and jetting, I bought a HRC air tray or copy thereof and was planning to run this setup, you suggest it may be difficult to dial in this way ?
That said I much appreciate your advice what you say makes sense, where the money should be spent is therefore on pipes and jetting, I bought a HRC air tray or copy thereof and was planning to run this setup, you suggest it may be difficult to dial in this way ?
- Cammo
- Site Supporter
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 12:35 am
- Bike owned: NC30
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: Road to Track to Race
Yeah it can be. The air tray was originally designed for use without an airbox/filter (open carb setup). If you want to run this then you'll need the kit carbs parts or it just won't run well.mrdidlydingo wrote:I bought a HRC air tray or copy thereof and was planning to run this setup, you suggest it may be difficult to dial in this way ?
Some peeps on here successfully run the air tray under the airbox to help pull air in to cool the carbs, seems unnecessary to me though.
I personally wouldn't mess with this area, NC30's are extremely sensitive to induction changes.
Heat and a weak electrical system are the NC30's achilles heal. You'll probably get away with standard radiators if they're in good condition (inside and out). I would fit a digital or analogue water temp guage of a reputable brand, more accurate and easier to read. Here in Australia bigger rads are recommended (it was 44C here 2 days ago!). I've done track days in 30C+ heat with standard rads and they held up though.
There are heaps of posts on reg/rec upgrades, I would rate this as essential also (I stay away from any honda units, change all my reg/recs to Yamaha for peace of mind!). Check over the whole charging system (wire condition, reg/rec plug burns, etc).
Build the bike up to be reliable and bullet proof, then go have some fun on it!
"It's just a ride" Bill Hicks
- mrdidlydingo
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:41 pm
- Bike owned: NC29, 30, 35, RDLC, GSXR
Re: Road to Track to Race
Stickshift wrote:mrdidlydingo wrote: Here in Australia bigger rads are recommended (it was 44C here 2 days ago!). I've done track days in 30C+ heat
Go on rub it in why dont you
