the test itself for the reg rec is done wothout the bike running.

but if you start your bike whilst it is @5000rpm the voltage at the battery should be between 13.5-15.5volts.
i would do this first.
to check the reg rec switch the multimeter to ohms(resistance)and check for continuity between the green wire on the wiring connector and ground earth...there should be continuity.
then check for resistance between any of the yellow terminals on the wiring connector they should all read between 0.1-1.0 ohms.if these are not the results you get and all other connections are fine betwen battery etc then the reg rec is probably at fault.
to test the reg rec properly you can test each terminal on the reg rec after you remove the connector and take readings between two terminals......
red/white-yellow should read 0.5-10
green/red-white should read 1-20
yellow-yellow should read 30-500
green-yellow should read 10-200

i personally do not think the reg rec is what is causing your bike to struggle to start.with a fully charged battery your bike would start fine and run for a good while,even if the reg rec was faulty!!!!!!

when was the valve clearances last done?

william

not since i have owned the bike... 6years.
the bike shop i use do a compression test to see if the shims need doing to save you money. instead of just doing them
last compression test was early this yr as part of the diagnosis as bike would conk out/not start. that issue was the fuel pump

The compression test will tell you if the rings or head gasket are worn but I cant for the life of me work out how they'll tell you the clearances are out. But then maybe I'm just having a thick attack........am looking forward to somebody explaining this.

As a footnote 6 years, ridden everyday, they're bound to need set.

i am wondering if temperature has to do with it.. last 2 days its been warmer and bike hasnt had an issue starting!
yes it always took a tad longer to start in winter... but never as long as it has been few days ago+ 1 week.

compression tests.... they did tell me how it worked for shims, from what i do remember he did say its not a fool proof way, just a guide.

if your choke is working correctly then the bike should be able to start no problem.....that is why i mentioned if the bike started ok after a long run,if the bike started okay after a long run then this could indicate that the problem is only when the bike is cold but you mentioned it was a struggle to start warm also i think.



william

i know the choke has been stiff for several months to pull out, but its always kinda been like that. you can adjust how hard it is to pull out by the plastic nut on the yokes.

when the bike finally starts and the choke is fully on.....what is the revs at???
it should be up around 4500-5000rpm.
maybe at least 3500rpm but this will give you a indication if it is working well or not at all!


william

hmm.. i have never checked! one of them if it aint broke dont fix/look at it.
i will keep an eye on it: full choke-1/2 etc..

A tight valve clearance means the valve might not seal when closed or will only seal
for a shorter duration hence lower compression .

As for the rag over the exhaust it offers a little more back pressure to enable the engine
to fire up.

Check choke operation first.

can anyone tell me how the heck you can reach the starter button while your hand/rag is covering the end can outlet?
i am 5ft sod all and i know i cannae reach that far scottie.. lol + a rag would just spit out if jammed in the end..

i have to get tomorrow morning over with before i can really sort this out.. i'll let you all know what i am up to lunch time ish.
i need to look a few other things generally on the bike. @ MOT last week the rear calliper was/is loose sitting in the bracket. all bolts are done up tight.. and i know its not supposed to "float" that much! + it does rattle when i am riding. so maybe new brake bracket/bolts/rubbers in order. brakes still work fine.
if all plans out tomorrow morning, i may have a chance to get several jobs done on the bike this winter.