Engine Removal Problem!

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RVF400RR
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by RVF400RR »

Drunkn Munky wrote:
RVF400RR wrote:
chrishs wrote:Currently removing my engine, but when taking the lower right mounting bolt out, the 2 raised lips on the adjuster bolt that the mounting bolt latches on to have snapped, with the adjuster bolt still in place.

How can I get this out and proceed? All help appreciated!

Image
I can't get the bolt shown in this picture out :( .

The castle nut is off.

The 6mm hex hole has been destroyed using an impact gun in an attempt to remove the bolt with the adjusting bolt :(

I have tried hammering the bolt from the left hand side, but it will not budge?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
I had one like this, nothing shifted it and ended up cutting the bolt to remove the engine. You then have to remove the remainder of the bolt from the engine.
I think cutting the bolt is the way I'm going to have to go :( .

My bolt won't move :( .

I'm contemplating cutting the bolt on the right hand side first which will hopefully enable the engine to move far enough to the right so that I can cut the bolt on the left hand side between the engine and frame. Then like you say, remove the remainder of the bolt from the engine and frame ...... :( .
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iDemonix
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by iDemonix »

Sorry I can't be of more help, I've forgotten how that mount works.

What is it actually stuck on?
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RVF400RR
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by RVF400RR »

iDemonix wrote:Sorry I can't be of more help, I've forgotten how that mount works.

What is it actually stuck on?
As I can pivot the engine in the frame, the bolt must be seized in the engine. I've ordered a cheap blow torch off eBay and will buy some more PlusGas or similar at the weekend, before I have to seriously consider cutting the bolt.
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by willandrip »

If that pic is of your bike; it cannot be seized as it has moved quite a way. It can be jammed though.
Can you knock it back through and see if you have burred/mushroomed the threads.
From the sound of things I don't think you will get the threads back through the frame now to dress the end!
Looks like a 1mm disc in the grinder or a single ended hacksaw job.
It needs turning and pulling whilst it is tapped out with the drift.
A red box doth not a Snap On make.
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iDemonix
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by iDemonix »

Does it move back and forwards freely? Then just jams on something?
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RVF400RR
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by RVF400RR »

willandrip wrote:If that pic is of your bike; it cannot be seized as it has moved quite a way. It can be jammed though.
Can you knock it back through and see if you have burred/mushroomed the threads.
From the sound of things I don't think you will get the threads back through the frame now to dress the end!
Looks like a 1mm disc in the grinder or a single ended hacksaw job.
It needs turning and pulling whilst it is tapped out with the drift.
That picture is not of my bike. I wish it was.

All I've been able to do is remove the nut from the left hand side and castle locking nut from the right hand side.
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by willandrip »

Arrh; right then.
The bolt is seized in the crankcases as all have summised.
If its on its side (do you have 2 threads going on at once about this ?) then teem penetrating fluid or diesel down the bolt from the threaded end.Keep adding fluid and see if it shifts.Turn it over and repeat from the other side overnight.
WD 40 and oil is FUCKING USELESS for this application; use PROPER PENETRATING FLUID- it creeps along the corroded
areas.
I reckon; source a new bolt now; you will end up cutting it out.
To do as little damage as possible; keep the nut on the threads as much as possible to prevent the threads mushrooming.
A red box doth not a Snap On make.
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by barneyho »

What penetrating fluid would you suggest then?

I've generally found wd40 to be ok and use brake fluid as a last resort but recently have a seized bolt that won't budge!!!
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by willandrip »

Plus gas is as good as owt.

The clue is in the labels that state; penetrating oil.

The WD group now make a penetrating oil but I have not tried it.
The original is for Water Dispersal.

Using brake fluid ?; you might as well use piss if you are that hard up; it will damage paintwork less.

Penetrating oil/fluid does exactly what it states on the tin; it creeps and penetrates corrosion,
Any other liquids just lessen friction by being .............a liquid.

If you want to; make your own with a 50/50 mix of acetone and a light oil (transmission fluid is good) and put it in an old trigger spray bottle.
A red box doth not a Snap On make.
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Re: Engine Removal Problem!

Post by Drunkn Munky »

When this happened to me i had it laying on its sides for days and the plus gas didnt budge, needless to say it didnt free it up either so it was cut out.

I might have a spare bolt if you end up cutting it out

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