I had bolts on my CG125, simply because the studs were so exposed and I went through 3 sets despite using loads of copper grease on the thread, I used plenty of copper grease with the bolts and never had a problem after that

porndoguk wrote:

tanuki wrote:I know it's different on a V4 but I now use bolts instead of studs and nuts.

ive never thought of doing that, ill go measure the depth of the m6 hole, all youll need to do in future to guage the size of the bolt is the depth + the collar thickness is the length the thread, any longer, and you risk stripping the thread or not getting enoughp pressure on the head/exhaust gaskets.

brb i shall go measure, the joys of working at home :D

18MM Depth on all 8 stud hole/threads

youll need to measure the difference with the collars when toy have them on i would imagine 30mm A2 stainless bolts will do the jobby nicely,

Cheers for the idea Billy, i dont know why id never thought of that?

I may have some A2/ M6 socket cap allen bolts. About 25mm length I think.
Cheers for the ideas guys!

Hadies wrote:I may have some A2/ M6 socket cap allen bolts. About 25mm length I think.
Cheers for the ideas guys!

I Wouldnt use Allen bolts on this occasion! id use hex heads becuase allen heads dont like high torque! and when they get heated up, they will seize into the heads so id be inclined to deffo use hex head bolts,

measure them let me know what size work out for you?

porndoguk wrote:

Hadies wrote:I may have some A2/ M6 socket cap allen bolts. About 25mm length I think.
Cheers for the ideas guys!

I Wouldnt use Allen bolts on this occasion! id use hex heads becuase allen heads dont like high torque! and when they get heated up, they will seize into the heads so id be inclined to deffo use hex head bolts,

measure them let me know what size work out for you?

Measured these up and 20mm hex head bolts would be spot on.

its a 5min job hade,

suspend the front end,
undo the fork adjuster caps

pull the old springs and spacers out, put new ones in simples.

drain the old oil first with the 10mm hex head bolt at the back of the forks,

It really as simple as that^^^

Loosen top yoke clamp bolts and undo fork tops;

Drain oil;

Pull out spacer, washer and old spring and replace with new ones;

Fit drain bolt and fill with 450ml of fork oil.
Slide the stanchion into the fork bottom and remove the excess oil with the supplied syringe.
JOB DONE!

Also got these back today;

MMMM, fresh paint.

Wheels look superb mate!!

Thanks Pete. They won't stay like that for long
I hate white wheels with all the cleaning but they just look too good to not have.

Tidy bike you have there!

Cammo wrote:Tidy bike you have there!

Thanks Cammo!
I'm looking to fit a smaller front brake reservoir and do the rear brake in swing arm mod this weekend. Need to check out Ricky's build thread