Isn't the outlet from the 21 collector of a lesser diameter than the 24?

Vanessa are you sure that collector needs replacing, TBH, from those photos it doesn't appear anywhere near as bad as the one I had to replace, either way best of luck. It's not a difficult job just long and tedious, still with a name like Vanessa you should be spared the ball-ache

Ian

The NC21 exhaust is low-level and has a short link pipe as the NC21 collector has a longer exit pipe.

You'll need to change the mounting somehow as it wont fit on a standard 24.

That bikes running really really terribly if it's making soot, especailly that much.

Since it's cold it looks like its mixing with condenstation and road grime making the wheel look quite bad.

What do your spark plugs look like?

How long are you using the choke for? You only need 30 seconds of choke before you can take it off, the bike will be sluggish till warmed up but it'll save on petrol and plug fouling.

That end-can you posted from DSS is the Origianl NC21 end-can





I can't remember if the NC21 / 24 subframes share the same foot-rest mounting holes as the NC21 exhaust pipe mounts to the rear footrests, which are different on the NC21.

If your fitting the NC21 collector ideally you want NC21 exhaust too as well as NC21 rear footrests (both sides as they'll look odd otherwise)

The SS one with slip joints you'll still need to remove the engine to get the old collectorbox off. then once you've fitted the new SS one you can remove it while leaving the rear-headers in place to get the sump off should you need to.



NC21 collectorbox.. note the long exit pipe



NC24 collector.. no exit pipe

Did i read correctly that you have a manual for an NC24 cause i have only heard of them being done in japanese which is a bit hard to read lol
Ben

Just the Haynes NC30/NC35 manual which you can sometimes bodge for the 24! Plus some other stuff.

I changed my plugs not long ago, they were fine when we took the old ones out, so much so that I kept them for spares! Not had a look at these ones, though I might do now she's completely stripped down. Need to go get some replacement bolts and washers tomorrow, as well as some other stuff. Wonder if my staff trade card still works...?! Think I'll go NC24 scorpion, I know I can get one and I like the highmount exhaust of the 24, a bugger for pillions tho :) failing anything else, I know I can get the collector and downpipes made...fingers crossed this is the last of the main work besides plastics before she's good as new!

She runs really bad, to the point where I had to keep the choke on at junctions or it stalled. We sorted that by checking the breather hose - the valve got stuck and was drawing a vacuum over the fuel so kept cutting out. We thought it was solved...but now look! Plus now there's so much play in the choke cable I may as well not have one, that was the aim the other night before the air box disaster took the last of my patience.

I know it's running rich, has done ever since I had it as it's restricted til June. Hence why part of me thinks I should just get the parts but wait til then to do anything, run her a while in third and blast all the crud out once shes derestricted and I've had someone check the fuel system over...

Fun and games huh...anyone fancy working on a 24 in Lincs, have fun! :)

Terri400 wrote:Isn't the outlet from the 21 collector of a lesser diameter than the 24?

Vanessa are you sure that collector needs replacing, TBH, from those photos it doesn't appear anywhere near as bad as the one I had to replace, either way best of luck. It's not a difficult job just long and tedious, still with a name like Vanessa you should be spared the ball-ache

Ian

Haha very funny - I'm sure there's other things to ache, or just have an excuse to have a strop!

[quote="Vanessa13688"]Just the Haynes NC30/NC35 manual which you can sometimes bodge for the 24! Plus some other stuff.
quote]

Ahhhh i c ta
Ben

Hmm the lack of manuals etc does make things pretty hard. I got the original Japanese owners manual for my baby blade, been threatening to learn by translating it!

For 400quid you could just get another one with what looks like a decent exhaust!

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php? ... ost2146089" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Druid

Thanks - but it needs a new collector box, just like mine!

From the pictures you've posted your collectorbox doesn't look at all bad.. Take off the end-can and the front downpipes and have a proper look, it should be repariable.

If the guys never changed a collectorbox before I'd work on at least 6 hours of labour.

I have an MTC Stainless Oval exhaust and link pipe somewhere I may part with fairly cheap if your going after-market pipe.

Did you have it dyno'd / rejetted when you restricted the bike? Running that rich isn't good for the engine, your going to be using far too much fuel, and will foul the plugs and valves up which can make the bike hard to start.

If you have slack in the choke cable it might not be the right one? What do you mean by slack though? You can pull the choke lever all the way down and the choke isn't on? Theres always about 3-4mm of plunger than you can pull out more than the choke cable will pull.

Most important things to ensure its runnign right are.

1. Valve clearances checked and adjusted where needed, the NC24 uses adjustable tappets so this is an easy job. Always use two feeler blades to get a more accurate reading.

2. Carbs clean, specs checked and balanced. There'll be no point setting them to factory settings if you've had the bike restricted, a dyno operator will be able to measure fuel / air and advice on correct size jets. As a rough guess i'd go down from the Standard 115's and try some 110's off an 89 NC30. The carbs are failry easy to mess with once you've gotten used to them. Gettin em on and off and sealing right can be a bit of a ballache with older carb rubbers.

3. Good Plugs, Fresh Fuel / Clean Air Filter. Obviously, without air, fuel or spark the above are useless. Correct Plugs are NGK C8EH9's or ND U24FE9, although how cold its been lately NGK C7EH9 or ND U22FE9 might get the bike a little warmer

These bikes fire 180'degrees like their 750/800 counterparts and sound fairly even when ticking over and should be smooth and quiet.

Take note of druid's advice though.. I wouldn't invest in the bike too much as theres plenty about and they dont' fetch a lot, it could easily turn into a bottemless money pit.

They are great fun to ride though and the 16 / 18' wheels make it 'fast' around the bends.