problems revving up under load

[Cammo]

Sounds like it's running lean.

Is it a genuine honda air filter that you're using?

Could also be a fuel tap/vacuum issue, jets too small, or electrical system breaking down under load.

[mambraNC30]

Could also be a fuel tap/vacuum issue, jets too small, or electrical system breaking down under load.

doubt it could be the fuel tap, we don't get original honda parts for 30's here. jets can't be to small im running 120mm jets... eletrical system please don't tell me it could be that. where do i start looking for faults that causes the bogging???

[mambraNC30]

oh yes.i almost forgot...
why does my bike flood time and again when i start it up. my sparks are about +-4months old.

[G-MAN]

Maybe its time you take stuff like the carbs off and do some more closer inspection with some pics for the forum so the boys have a better picture and be able to pin down the gremlin hiding in that moto of yours, like Stickshift said you need to see wats inside .

Now run and go get those office hands some welts on it because it ain't gonna get fixed like this and dont forget the pics

[mambraNC30]

Happy New Year guys!!! i haven't posted in a while.
ok. so now i got my bike back from a second makkie. the bike runs fine but not 100%. i still have a slight bogging on the higher revs and a slight flat spot between
5-7rpm. the previous makkie said he had 120mm jets, but it was actually 110mm alround. and a month or two later the bike started bogging heavily again. i pid him almost R2000 for a bike the only ran well for 2months. when i wanted to take it back. he said i am gona pay that same amount of money for him to do everything overbalance and rejetting. (i gave him the middle finger). the new makkie great.

my NC30 now has 110f and 112r main jets and a foam air filter. which im not to convinced about, but his a experienced bike makkie. but the bike still isn't running as good as i know it can. pilot screws are at 2turns out...
but my bike has developed a new problem. when its been standing till morning, i starts up fine, but if i don't keep the revs up (between 2 and 4rpm) and the revs drop below 1 rpm it floods the right-hand-side rear cylinder. we've been think as to what causes this problem, but can't figure it out. i know when all else fails you guys can help me sort out this problem. sorry for the five page essay, just thought you would like to hear the almost full story and how shit some makkies work and try to con our asses every chance they get.

[Cammo]

but my bike has developed a new problem. when its been standing till morning, i starts up fine, but if i don't keep the revs up (between 2 and 4rpm) and the revs drop below 1 rpm it floods the right-hand-side rear cylinder. we've been think as to what causes this problem, but can't figure it out. [/color]

That carb setup sounds way off the mark to me!!

Take the carbs off, clean them properly and set the float height (get a haynes manual!).

Get hold of a standard honda air filter only, install 118/120 main jets and it should run properly.

[mambraNC30]

i am planning to take the carbs off again. i do have the manuel. but wont those jet sizes increase fuel consumption alot? thats why i didn't want to use bigger jets. i was planning on using 115f 118r jets.
what you think? to small?
we don't get genuine handa parts here in CT, South Africa for the 30 anymore. but i have a paper filter that was made for the 30, that the bike-shops still sell in... but don't get me wrong, my bike runs most of the 400's if not all in my area even sticks with some of my friends 600's. just that it doesn't run as smoothe with the flat spot and the bogging like it supposed to. and now this problem with the one cylinder that keeps flooding when i start it up in the morning. it flooded again this morning. now i have to take my plugs and clean it again.

oh i also found out that the exhaust is a complete custom-made one. the plumbing is slighty longer than standard and the can is longer than the standard one.

[alexwitham]

Replace the filter, 118f 120r wont make it guzzle fuel, it'll be fine (around 115miles per tank), get your fuelling and induction sorted first as its the most likely cause of running problems.

[mambraNC30]

k thanks. next week i'll be stripping and rejetting. i will let you guys now what happens.

[Cammo]

When you strip the carbs, check all of the float needle valves, float heights etc.

The haynes manual covers all these checks.

There's not much point pulling the carbs apart if you're only going to rejet, sounds like they need a major inspect, clean and overhaul.