How can i make my NC30 faster?

[PirateJafa]

PirateJaffa: What do you mean by brake deep? Do you mean brake late? Do you take a very tight line? Braking hard just before you tip in?

Any line that keeps you out of the dirt and puts you ahead of the fucker in front of you is a good line.

I was told a good line is one were at the apex you start to put the power on and it should be one fluid movement without forceing you to change line or anything, and also you should either be on the power or on the brakes nothing inbetween this costs you time and unbalances the suspension

Assuming you're presented with a corner free of any other riders, yes.

Keeping the bike either accelerating or braking keeps everything right - keeps the suspension loaded, stiffens the chassis (not so much with the NC's, but very impt on my ol' RD'o'doom), and of course keeps you going faster sooner and for longer.

If you have been picking your apex correctly, then the apex should be your transition from braking to throttle on.

You should ONLY throttle on once you know that you will not have to throttle off.

And lastly, the most important bit of advice: Don't concentrate on being fast - concentrate on being smooth. Because smooth IS fast.

Go faster stripes add at least 15hp

Thank god, that makes me feel less guilty about planning to put some on the track viffer.

_________________

[Lope]

Good to know, I always thought I might be doing something wrong having not finished breaking before tipping in.

[Cammo]

If you just want to make it go faster then ride it off a tall cliff.

[The Hamster]

I am with Viper on this one:

- Suspension
- Tyres
- Fueling
- Weight

4 simple rules of performance.

You will be utterly amazed at how different and amazing the bike feels with the right Suspension setup and the Right tyres. Although this does come at a cot of course. The cheapest on the list is weight! Lose a few pounds off your body weight if you can afford to, fit a race seat unit with a rear light, that'll save quite a lot! Suzuka front Fairing, removes one headlight and saves weight again.. And of course there is the bigger stuff like Cabron Fibre Fairings, Petrol Tank, Wheels etc etc etc, but again not cheap at all.



But I would prioritize (sp?) the suspension and tyres. I cant recommend a good shock as I havent changed mine yet from standard. but A Rick oliver Fork upgrade kit seems to come very highly rated and none of Rick Olivers stuff can really be considered expensive in my opinion. Then depending on how many miles you are doing, I would suggest some Michelin Pilot Power 2CT tyres if you can get them for size. he bike will hold on longer than you can with this setup.. LOL

[venom51]

I can tell you plenty of ways to make it faster...most are expensive. 1 however is free. Improve the functionality between the seat and the handle bars.

You are the single most complicated piece of equipment on the bike.

[mruehl34]

I can tell you plenty of ways to make it faster...most are expensive. 1 however is free. Improve the functionality between the seat and the handle bars.

You are the single most complicated piece of equipment on the bike.

Right, but i have one too. Look at your right hand, the fingers make the music.

Michael

[Frenchienc30]

Cheers for all the replies.
Regarding tyres i am using dunlop slicks.And as for reducing the bikes weight, it has a race fairing fitted.
I am currently running in the fast group on trackdays and my local track is cadwell, a very 400 friendly track. Im easily out braking most bikes into corners and carrying a lot more corner speed as you would expect from an nc30. It just feels a bit flat between 6-8k. I have recently got a race exhaust and jetting kit which i will be fitting shortly.
I dont expect it to keep up with 600s (my mate fzrtim leaves me for dust) but just want a bit more va va voom. I have heard something about removing some balancer gearing???
What can you recommend regards suspension?
Cheers Jean-louis