Another RVF thread!

[tanuki]

how did you get the engine so clean.

Have you actually read the thread?????

Wow. Very nice project you have going there.

Engine looks beautiful... please give me more details on how you got it to look like that. What wire wheel did you use?

I just used about 3-4 different sized wire wheels, fine not coarse, on an electric hand drill. Just lightly removed all the surface corrosion. A little hard to get every little crack and crevice. I'm going to go back and use some cleaner/polish and a 3M pad to finish it off. I've seen some other Honda V-4's that have had a brown/gray anodized color to them. Anyone know the difference and which models had which?

[royster81]

If it is a forum members bike I think it maybe Royster81's ??

yep thats mine bike and i didn't do the frame ,that isn't my mistake ....i'm all for keeping the frames silver,not only does it look far better but the hassle i've had from this one has put me right off powder coating anything for a while....

[hannakournikova]

if your gonna keep standard panels then i think keep standard. i was tempted to powdercoat a bike of mine, but the panels where grey, black and silver and i could have gotten away with it.

[RVFHooligan]

OK, OK, i fold under pressure, I'll keep everything silver!

Actually, it will be much quicker and cheaper not to powdercoat the frame, sub, and swingarm. Since the bike is completely broken down and reasonably clean I can get started with the re-assembly straight away!

[RVFHooligan]

Right now everything is completed broken down, labeled, bagged, tagged, and boxed up in the garage. "Bike in a Box".

I've thought about doing more to the motor but.................

1)Aftermarket and replacement parts are all but non-existant (unobtanium).
2)If I screw something up..................refer to #1.

I've got the race can and I'll rejet and rebuild the carbs which should yield a few (ie: 1-2) hp but I'll be aiming for a bike that runs smooth and clean throughout. Going to rebuild the forks with Race Tech valves and springs. Rear shock is not rebuildable but is great shape so I'll try that initially. Have rear ride height shims ready to go. Rebuilding front and rear master cylinders, CRG levers, doing something with the rear sets.??? Already have Renthal front and rear sprockets, 520 conversion. Found EBC HH brake pads on Flea Bay. Stainless lines front and back. Need to strip, sand, and repair all the body panels before paint. Still dealing with the rusty tank issue. Trying KBS Coatings tank kit this weekend. Have all new hoses and clamps. Going to clean and re-tape the wiring harness. This bike is really simple in design, not much to it compared to modern bikes. It's amazing how much more is on Fuel Injected bikes. It's going to take the next 2 months to prepare everything for re-assembly. Everything, and I mean everything, will be cleaned, inspected, repaired, re-finished, and stored until then. Trying to work on a logical order for re-assembly in my mind. But I want to have everything ready to go and then it shouldn;t take long. Goal is to hit the track in late September. Ok, now where was I.....................................

[Carlos]

Watching this one with interest, keep the faith brother as I started a fussy rebuild over 9 years ago and still not done (deeeep shame!).
On the rusty shock shroud issue I had the same problem, my solution was to take the hacksaw route, no more rust and a nicer more modern looking shock.
Keep up the good work :)

[hannakournikova]

Need to strip, sand, and repair all the body panels before paint.

your panels look mint anyway!!!! if your panels are in anyway good i would recommend sourcing poor quality panels and get them sprayed up!!!

[RVFHooligan]

In re: Carlos: That's what I was thinking of doing. Why did you leave that last bit of shield, couldn't you just have cut it off all together?

[RVFHooligan]

Need to strip, sand, and repair all the body panels before paint.

your panels look mint anyway!!!! if you panels are in way good i would recommend sourcing poor quality panels and get them sprayed up!!!

Some of the panels ARE mint, but some have small cracks to be repaired, like the upper, left mid section, V-nose, and lower. Mid and lower decals are all scratched and torn and there is no way to get full replacement decals in the US. There ae some re-productions available out there, but it's just the lettering and not the background colors. The tail section is mint and will most likely be left alone. The tank is not bad, but we'll see what it looks like after the rust removal/sealing issue. I'll have to be extra extra careful on that. Front fender is all faded and discolored and has to be sprayed. I'll try to use whats good and repair the rest.

[hannakournikova]

Need to strip, sand, and repair all the body panels before paint.

your panels look mint anyway!!!! if you panels are in way good i would recommend sourcing poor quality panels and get them sprayed up!!!

Some of the panels ARE mint, but some have small cracks to be repaired, like the upper, left mid section, V-nose, and lower. Mid and lower decals are all scratched and torn and there is no way to get full replacement decals in the US. There ae some re-productions available out there, but it's just the lettering and not the background colors. The tail section is mint and will most likely be left alone. The tank is not bad, but we'll see what it looks like after the rust removal/sealing issue. I'll have to be extra extra careful on that. Front fender is all faded and discolored and has to be re-sprayed. I'll try to use whats good and repair the rest.

place over here called image works, they do fantastic decals. speak to rpyster81, his wife got their decal kit and it looks very well!
the front mudguard is actually red plastic and isnt sprayed.
you can never have too much of a good thing