NC30 gearbox & neutral

Forum rules
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
fei
Settled in member
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 2:44 pm
Re: NC30 gearbox & neutral

Post by fei »

1990nc30 wrote:I agree with everything that declangaelic says. I also had this problem and people on here told me to blip the throttle to 3k and find nuetral while doing so and it's fine works a treat, hopefully it can for your bike too! 8-)
Ya this is what I have been doing all since I have the bike, just worried if there is sth wrong with the bike, but now it sound like it is normal/ comment problem on NC30s?
User avatar
oliherst
Settled in member
Posts: 160
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 8:36 am
Location: Surrey, UK
Re: NC30 gearbox & neutral

Post by oliherst »

fei wrote:
oliherst wrote:I had this problem too. It would NOT go to neutral from idle and it was really clunky going to first, also the clutch was dragging slightly. To fix most of this I had to dismantle the clutch, change the friction plates and file down the grooves on the clutch basket.

I'm 99% the ridges in the clutch basket was causing most of the problems, anyway, it's all much better now, and it all works as intended. Going to first is always going to be a bit clunky on the VFR though, it's a 15 odd year old bike after all :D
Thanks!

How difficult is it to do the job by yourself?

What parts do I need to get? Just the friction plates?

Thanks,

Fei
TBH it is a fair old job, so if you can live with the 'throttle blip' option that is probably your best bet. However, if your anal like me, you must get a haynes manual, it has information in there for what you need check to know what needs to be replaced. Personally I don't think the friction plates in mine needed doing, but seeing as taking the clutch apart is a pain, I changed them anyway, although I didn't change the other plates, the manual says to change them if they look heat damaged, but as long as they are completely flat it doesn't matter, I didn't change the springs as they were fine. I also repalced the clutch cable, obviously you need a new gasket too. You will also need a new clutch nut and the castle tool thing to get it off with.

I can get some pictures of what I have left over, but it is all back together now and I didn't take any pictures as I was doing it. Let me know if your going ahead and I'll see if I can come up with some tips.

EDIT - You can do it on your own although an assistant to help get the clutch nut off is advisable.
Image

Post Reply