This can be done with the forks still fitted to the bike. I held the bike steady at the rear with an ABBA stand, then with some axle standsunder the R+G's.
Once the bike is in the air (front and rear) you will need to remove the cir-clip on the damping rod and wind off the pre-load adjuster but do not remove it (yet). Once you have done this then you should undo the fork tops. This will allox you to push the forks up through themselves to reveal the internals.
At this point you should now remove the pre-load adjuster completely by winding it right off and lifting it out of its housing. Place it beside the cir-clip that you removed earlier. Next up you will need to take off the fork top, so, with a 17mm spanner, push down the spacer until you see the recess to put the spanner and then with the appropriate socket (will get the size later as I don't know it off the top of my head) on the fork top, remove that also.
Remove the washer and spacer (keeping not of which way they go) to leave you looking at just the damping rod. You will now see a 14mm lock nut below the adjuster, so with your 17mm and 14mm spanners, unlock these against eachother so you can work with the damping rod. I'm sure there are many methods on how to adjust how many clicks you will get on the damping rod but this is how I did it. Remove the inner damping rod completey (but put a 12mm spanner below the 14mm lock nut explained just above as it will slide down into the fork and you DON'T WANT THAT TO HAPPEN, so you have been warned) by screwing it off the outer part of the rod. With the little brass screw turnd fully out, count 15 clicks inwards. There are 3 clicks per half turn so its a total of two and a half turns in from fully off. Put the inner rod back into its housing and lock the 14mm locking nut up against the 17mm on the adjuster part, this will now give you a full 15 clicks of adjustment.
Re-build the fork as described above. Slot the spacer onto the spring, then the washer. Lock the fork-top in place, then the pre-load adjuster and finally re-fit the cir-clip. DO NOT fully remove the inner damping rod once removed from the fork leg as you WILL loose the little ball bearing that identifies the clicks and this will make your life hell (no, I didn't loose the bearing, but I was curious to find out what was inside) Also, you will notice there is a coils spring that goes around the rod, DO NOT remove that either or again, you will loose the bearing, so you cannot say you weren't warned.
Once re-built I now have 15 clicks of adjustment on both forks, however, I will confirm if this is the correct number of clicks that you should have with Mr Oliver this evening, so, if you are going to do this then please wait until I confirm the correct numbers. I was also told of another method on adjusting it that does not involve removing the inner rod. It's as simple as once you are at the 14mm locking nut, you wind it fully off, then wind the 17mm rod down to meet it then turn the 17mm rod backwards one and a half turns, but again, I'll speak with Rick about this tonight.
I hope this was of some help to you folks out there. The VFR is pretty much the same but its two 14mm spanner iirc rather than a 17mm and 14mm.
I would appreciate any comments and feedback, pointers or advice. Pics are limited but hopefully it gives you an idea.
