NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
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NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
So, had to replace the HT lead on cylinder 2 due to the original being cracked causing the engine to miss and run badly. Rick Oliver sent me a great how to on repairing these leads. Bought a new length of 7mm, soldered the little washer, reassembled with the suppressor, tested it and it was within the 4500 to 5000 ohm range. Reinstalled.
I simultaneously changed the fuel hose from tap to carbs with a new 8mm section as the old one was a botch job using the orange pipe from a gas line. There was an inline 6mm fuel filter with rubber pipe sections to fit into the 8mm pipe. I left this off as according to the manual there is no inline filter.
Tried to start bike. Nada. wants to fire but sounds and smells like it is flooding. Drained the carb bowls (the ones I could reach anyway) did the same thing.
Is it possible that removing the fuel filer could be causing the flooding due to the increase in pipe size over the in-line filters 6mm size?
I simultaneously changed the fuel hose from tap to carbs with a new 8mm section as the old one was a botch job using the orange pipe from a gas line. There was an inline 6mm fuel filter with rubber pipe sections to fit into the 8mm pipe. I left this off as according to the manual there is no inline filter.
Tried to start bike. Nada. wants to fire but sounds and smells like it is flooding. Drained the carb bowls (the ones I could reach anyway) did the same thing.
Is it possible that removing the fuel filer could be causing the flooding due to the increase in pipe size over the in-line filters 6mm size?
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
Did it start and run before you did any of the work described?
Does it have the vacuum pipe in place?
If its been standing a while I'd take off the carbs and check the float bowls.
Not for the faint hearted but not incredibly tricky. Check the Haynes manual or do a search on here
Does it have the vacuum pipe in place?
If its been standing a while I'd take off the carbs and check the float bowls.
Not for the faint hearted but not incredibly tricky. Check the Haynes manual or do a search on here
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
You may have inadvertently induced some debris inside the fuel line and it is now stuck in the needle valve......you know what to do....
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
It did. It ran badly ( subsequently found the damagae to the HT lead and repaired and tested to Rick Olivers methodology).Swingarm wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 4:30 pmDid it start and run before you did any of the work described?
Does it have the vacuum pipe in place?
If its been standing a while I'd take off the carbs and check the float bowls.
Not for the faint hearted but not incredibly tricky. Check the Haynes manual or do a search on here
No vacuum pipe. Previous owner obviously did that as part of the mod to the bike as the pipe is faced toward the rear with a small section of rubber pipe blocked with a screw (it ran in this config)
It only stood for a few days whilst I did the HT lead repair.
Was hoping to avoid removing the carbs (as these were apparently done by the previous owner before I bought it (have receipt thereof).
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
Yeah, havea feeling removing that inline filter when installing the new 8mm pipe was a mistake. Bike shop I get parts from did not have an 8mm filter unfortunately and did not want to use the old 6mm one.mechannibalism wrote: ↑Thu Nov 16, 2023 3:25 amYou may have inadvertently induced some debris inside the fuel line and it is now stuck in the needle valve......you know what to do....
School fees I guess.
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
So went through the process of testing all components in ignition system.
HT coil resistance (primary winding) 3.5 to 3.8 ohms on each of the coils
HT coil resistance (secondary winding, w/plug cap) 26.0-28.0 ohms respectively on each of the coils
Removed and tested spark plugs each tested as per below
3.8 ohms
3.0 ohms
4.0 ohms
4.8 ohms
Drained the carb float bowls (except carb 4 as could not get to drain screw.
Inserted fuel filter.
A bit of coaxing, but bike started.
Should I be replacing the coils and the spark plugs as resistance seems on the high side on each component.
HT coil resistance (primary winding) 3.5 to 3.8 ohms on each of the coils
HT coil resistance (secondary winding, w/plug cap) 26.0-28.0 ohms respectively on each of the coils
Removed and tested spark plugs each tested as per below
3.8 ohms
3.0 ohms
4.0 ohms
4.8 ohms
Drained the carb float bowls (except carb 4 as could not get to drain screw.
Inserted fuel filter.
A bit of coaxing, but bike started.
Should I be replacing the coils and the spark plugs as resistance seems on the high side on each component.
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
Coil pack resistance values look okay to me.
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
An inline fuel filter services no purpose as there is a filter included in the fuel tap, unless, in your case perhaps it provides a reservoir of fuel to fill the carbies. Is the vacuum hose to the fuel tap in good condition, is the vacuum fuel tap functioning correctly. I have converted the vacuum tap on my NC30 to fully manual as, depending on how long between rides, I found that cranking the engine until the float bowls filled could result in a flat battery,
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Re: NC35 Starting Issue after Changing HT lead and Fuel Pipe
Have always erred to the side of caution in regards installing an inline fuel filter as one can never tell with quality of fuel in the good ol SA (especially when riding out to more remote areas).magg wrote: ↑Sat Nov 25, 2023 11:57 amAn inline fuel filter services no purpose as there is a filter included in the fuel tap, unless, in your case perhaps it provides a reservoir of fuel to fill the carbies. Is the vacuum hose to the fuel tap in good condition, is the vacuum fuel tap functioning correctly. I have converted the vacuum tap on my NC30 to fully manual as, depending on how long between rides, I found that cranking the engine until the float bowls filled could result in a flat battery,
Previous owner modified the vacuum system to manual as well. Toying withthe idea of bringing it back to stock, but like you, the concern would be the extra cranking required to get the bowls filled as it won't be ridden with regularity.