CB400SF NC31 right handlebar switch

[untonyto]

Thanks for all your help so far. I've come a long way. Anyway...

One of the previous owners of my NC31 somehow got a single throttle cable type of switch onto the right handlebar switch. So I am switching out the right handlebar switch with a replacement that can incorporate push-pull throttle cables like stock.

Problem is, the replacement switch is from a CBR250R. There is no lights on/off/hazard toggle switch like nc31 would ordinarily have, just the killswitch and start button.

I can do without hazard lights (I think!).

Is there a way to wire it so the lights can function without the switch? I don't mind lights being always on whenever the key is switched on. If it helps I have an on/off toggle switch I could wire into the harness somewhere. I just don't know which wires to splice together. Here's a wiring diagram if anyone's up to the task.

[magg]

Image does not appear to be loaded.

[MadMotoUK]

Using an automotive relay, take a 15a fused supply direct from the battery to terminal 87. Your positive feed to the headlight bulb goes to terminal 30. A negative supply from the battery or bare frame goes to terminal 86. Your switching wire goes to terminal 85 and is spliced into the wire I assume is red on the left side of the ignition switch in your diagram (the image isn't great quality), fused with a 1a or 2a fuse. This will give you headlights on when the ignition is turned on. When you operate the starter, it should kill the lights momentarily to divert all power to the starter.

[untonyto]

Using an automotive relay, take a 15a fused supply direct from the battery to terminal 87. Your positive feed to the headlight bulb goes to terminal 30. A negative supply from the battery or bare frame goes to terminal 86. Your switching wire goes to terminal 85 and is spliced into the wire I assume is red on the left side of the ignition switch in your diagram (the image isn't great quality), fused with a 1a or 2a fuse. This will give you headlights on when the ignition is turned on. When you operate the starter, it should kill the lights momentarily to divert all power to the starter.

Thanks MadMotoUK. I've been trying to wrap my head around your instructions, hence the late response. So here are two simplified wiring diagrams I've been working on that include only the relevant parts.

First is the stock layout
Then here's the relay wired in (the way I understood you)

I probably got something quite wrong, please let me know.

Also, I can't figure out where to splice the black/red wire for the headlight dimmer button on the left switch. Probably to the 30 side of the relay?

[untonyto]

Image does not appear to be loaded.

Hey magg, here's a link to the image

[MadMotoUK]

Using an automotive relay, take a 15a fused supply direct from the battery to terminal 87. Your positive feed to the headlight bulb goes to terminal 30. A negative supply from the battery or bare frame goes to terminal 86. Your switching wire goes to terminal 85 and is spliced into the wire I assume is red on the left side of the ignition switch in your diagram (the image isn't great quality), fused with a 1a or 2a fuse. This will give you headlights on when the ignition is turned on. When you operate the starter, it should kill the lights momentarily to divert all power to the starter.

Thanks MadMotoUK. I've been trying to wrap my head around your instructions, hence the late response. So here are two simplified wiring diagrams I've been working on that include only the relevant parts.

First is the stock layout
Then here's the relay wired in (the way I understood you)

I probably got something quite wrong, please let me know.

Also, I can't figure out where to splice the black/red wire for the headlight dimmer button on the left switch. Probably to the 30 side of the relay?

Nearly right. It's easier now I can see the conductor colours. I wouldn't actually disconnect any of the OEM equipment, just splice the new wires into the existing by cutting, soldering and heatshrinking. I would advise however, doing a dry run first to ensure that it all works by using Scotchlocks so there's minimal damage should something be incorrect (I've had bikes before that someone has messed about with and wiring colours have been crossed)



Alternatively, the wire running to terminal 87 can be fed directly from the battery without going through the ignition switch.

[untonyto]

Nearly right. It's easier now I can see the conductor colours. I wouldn't actually disconnect any of the OEM equipment, just splice the new wires into the existing by cutting, soldering and heatshrinking. I would advise however, doing a dry run first to ensure that it all works by using Scotchlocks so there's minimal damage should something be incorrect (I've had bikes before that someone has messed about with and wiring colours have been crossed)



Alternatively, the wire running to terminal 87 can be fed directly from the battery without going through the ignition switch.

I can't view the linked image, probably the hosting server is down?

EDIT: the harness is entirely off the bike now. I pulled it all out of its the insulation and electrical tape. It was necessary because the battery was draining every day due to previous owners merging bits of harnesses from other bikes rather carelessly. There was a lot of crossed wires and useless loops of circuit. So everything is disconnected.

[MadMotoUK]

I can't view the linked image, probably the hosting server is down?

It's showing now?

[untonyto]

I can't view the linked image, probably the hosting server is down?

It's showing now?

Still no luck...

[MadMotoUK]

Hmmm. It's showing OK for me. Your firewall or browser settings blocking external links?