Nc30 headlights
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- JZH
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Re: Nc30 headlights
I can see H4-type LEDs working for a low-beam in a reflector headlight, but not for a main-beam. Even then, it's going to scatter some glare around, as the LED is not the same size and shape as the tungsten filament it replaces. But high beam is always going to be mega-bodge unless they start making high-power LEDs that aren't surface-mounted.
Ciao,

Ciao,
- RickOliver
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Re: Nc30 headlights
A quick footnote to the subject of swapping to higher power bulbs - you can replace the 60/35W Jap-spec H4R bulbs with 60/55W UK-spec H4 type but in order for the bulbs to sit securely in the holders (and exact bulb position is critical to maintaining the correct beam pattern) you need to use proper adaptor rings such as these -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-Bulb-Adapt ... ROwJa8pNOw
Rick
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-Bulb-Adapt ... ROwJa8pNOw
Rick
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Re: Nc30 headlights
Whilst I had the lights apart to clean them up I took the dremel to the bulb holders and cut the notches to take H4's. It can be done such that either type of bulb can be used and fits properly.
I'll take some pics and post them.
I'll take some pics and post them.
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Re: Nc30 headlights
Wierd, all 4 vfr's I've had in nz the h4's have all fit perfectly into the holders, maybe it's something everyone does here already? Or is there a difference in the holders or bulbs here?
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Re: Nc30 headlights
Here's the pics showing the bits I had to cut away. It's a 35 not a 30 but I assume the back shells are similar. There's a guide at http://webpages.charter.net/bpeloquin/H4mod.html for the VFR 750 but the clip arrangement is different.
First this is the H4R in situ - note this is after I'd done the mod so the extra cutouts are the ones below the lugs

at the 5 o'clock position you can leave a bit of the original rim behind when making the new cutout

but at the 7 o'clock you need to extend the original cut out into the boss for the retaining clip screw


There's still sufficient material for the screw to be tight, it's a question of only taking just enough material off to make it fit.
To get the cutout depths right I used the filament mask as a guide and made sure the H4 bulb sat centrally behind it, seeing as the screw is a tamper proof one it's a bugger to remove anyway.
First this is the H4R in situ - note this is after I'd done the mod so the extra cutouts are the ones below the lugs

at the 5 o'clock position you can leave a bit of the original rim behind when making the new cutout

but at the 7 o'clock you need to extend the original cut out into the boss for the retaining clip screw


There's still sufficient material for the screw to be tight, it's a question of only taking just enough material off to make it fit.
To get the cutout depths right I used the filament mask as a guide and made sure the H4 bulb sat centrally behind it, seeing as the screw is a tamper proof one it's a bugger to remove anyway.