Vibrating waterpump

[Eben007]

Hi guys, me and Neo did briefly talk about my NC24's heat issues, and it came up that the waterpump might be faulty, I took the bike for a spin yesterday, she was faultless really, idled the best she ever has, and pulled strong all through the rev range. All my previous ailments with the bike seem to be cured, and she did not get very hot at all, maybe a fifth of the way up the temp gauge.

I did notice however at idle(+-1300rpm) that the waterpump cover was vibrating quite heavily, more than the rest of the motor, I haven't taken it apart as yet, was just wondering if this is in fact an issue or if it's normal, and if it's not could it be something simple like a loose pump bolt or broken fin (offsetting weight on the shaft) or if this is very serious?

Thanks all
Cheers

[Neosophist]

any vibration should be taken as serious

any its not normal it sounds like something is wrong.

watermpump isnt repairable so if at fault will need to be replaced

i said chek it before right...

if its at fault and your bike overheats it cna easily destroy the engine...

[Eben007]

Neo got the cover off tonight and although it was n bit brownish and crusty the rotor spun nicely when the engine was cranked and no damage to the fins what so ever.. I cleaned up the rust as good as I could..There is a locating pin on the cover and through it goes a longish bolt... This was missing. I'm very surprised it never leaked past the O ring... which looked like new by the way... replaced the bolt with one from a spares engine and hopefully this cures the vibrations.

I now definitely have an air lock because even after squeezing the tubes I couldn't get the same amount of coolant back in as what came out..

How do I know my radiator cap is ok? It says 1.1 on it which is correct but how do I know it's opening correctly?

Thanks Neo!
Cheers

[VtypeV4]

Good luck man, I hate air locks. I've never had an issue with the NC30 but the CX can be a bugger sometimes..

[Neosophist]

go to a car shop and they can pressure test the cap with a proper device to ensure it opens at the correct pressure.

this is only to vent coolant into the expansion bottle, under normal conditions it wont open much at all.

Anyhow.

sounds very dodgy if bolts are missing from palces like water pump! give the bike a good checkover for missing things.. if that came loose and broke off while you were riding all the oil would come out immedialty going to the back wheel and 99% cause a massive crash and probably destroy the engine in the process.

run the bike on the side-stand with the rad cap off.. fluid will expand as it gets warm and a little might boil over, when it gets upto temp, about 1/4 way is ok the thermostat should be open andt he fluid circulating nicely.

snap the throttle to get the revs to 5000rpm and let it idle... do the same 3 or 4 times and turn off the engine.

allow to fully cool for some hours and top up the rad to the top and cap it and should be ok.

before you start the process, with the cap off gently squeeze the lower rad hoses to force air to the top.

[Eben007]

Hey Neo thanks mate, yeah, I have the bike in the kitchen and will make sure everything looks ok, I originally saw the hole where the bolt should go, and assumed it was the weep hole, like cars have, it was only after realising that the whole pump was hanging by one bolt that I started investigating and found the actual weep behind the rotor.

Thanks for all your help! Cheers

[Neosophist]

no trouble chief, fire away with the questions, will do my best to get back to you.

bleed it as above first and if its sudeently overheating and throwing a lot of coolant into the reserve bottle worth getting cap checked / repalced.