Onboard DVM

[manicguitarist]

Yeah - that'd be better. But for now, I know that there is 1v (ish) drop on the wire...I can add that much in my head - rather than effort of rewiring. :)

If I do any more wiring on the bike - I'm gonna fit me one of these http://www.pfjones.co.uk/towbar-electri ... tec3m.html and run switched things from that.

[SmallFrowne]

I did the same on my bike. Cheap dvm from china, wired up from the battery and routed to above the clocks. Yeah it's fugly but it saved my bacon once after a trip to the seaside. I noticed the R/R must've died when I saw the voltage wasn't reading a healthy ~14V but was mid 12 volts. I cut my adventures short and headed home, otherwise I might of stayed out much longer and into the darkness. Got home with about 10V showing. Didn't even dare indicate, and it's a bloody good job I didn't need my headlights on.

[Morespeedvicar]

Ive thought about making a little warning light so that if the voltage goes under 13 it comes on, had it mocked up just never got round to finishing it properly.
Good job tho, be interesting to see how much the voltage varies when riding about.

[manicguitarist]

Ive thought about making a little warning light so that if the voltage goes under 13 it comes on, had it mocked up just never got round to finishing it properly.
Good job tho, be interesting to see how much the voltage varies when riding about.

Just got back from a medium ride (170 miles). On idle the bike was reading 12.2V at the DVM which translates into 13.3V

For most of the ride it was either 13.6V or 13.7 - with once going upto 13.9V (this translates as 14.7,14.8V and 15V at the battery).

I did see it drop to 12.6V (13.7V at the battery) but this was going through traffic and the cooling fan came on - be aware I'm not measuring at the battery - I measuring at the main-beam relay - so the extra 3A draw or so that the fan uses might cause it to drop. Once I got moving again the temperature went down, the fan went off and it rose again to 13.6V (14.7).

M