Slippy clutch advice

[Soupyzrx]

Hey hey,
A while ago the clutch on my NC30 was slipping a bit and all the engagement was right out at the end on the lever travel, and I was unable to adjust it out at the cable, so I decided to replace the friction plates and cable.
So I installed a set of new Gekko plates and a Slinky Glide cable, and ended up with a lovely light smooth clutch.
The first time I took the bike for a shakedown run it felt great, no sign of clutch slip and nice smooth engagement. Result?
Well, no not really.
The next time I rode the bike, a few days later, the clutch was slipping like mad. Really bad. I could barely get the bike to move forward at all at first, but once moving it seemed ok, and it improved as the bike warmed up, however a few rolling tests showed it to be still slipping when I really gave her the berries while on the move.
Since then I have taken the release mechanism apart and found nothing untoward, just cleaned it, greased it and put it back together.
Tonight I'm going to nail it all back together and hope I can set the cable right to eliminate the slippage.

My questions are as follows....
Firstly, has anyone else had a problem with a slippy clutch after replacement of plates?
Was buying the Gekko clutch plates a mistake?
Should I be looking at replacing the diaphragm springs too?
Would the EBC replacement diaphragm spring be as good as standard Honda springs (EBC claim to be 15% stiffer)?
What's a good (idiot's) guide to setting the clutch cable?

The last question sounds stupid, but there is so much travel at the actuator lever on the engine casing, that I'm not sure where it should start. I'm guessing the lever should be rotated round till its travel starts to stiffen indicating that it is starting to push the clutch lifter plate, then back it off a shade and set the adjuster screws on the cable to hold that as the starting point? Then use the adjuster on the handlebar to introduce and adjust a bit of free play in the cable?
Does that sound about right?
Apologies for the stupid questions, but stupid is as stupid does, right?
Whatever that means.
I'm hoping I can get this sorted tonight without having to fanny about with ordering diaphragm springs, as the sun is threatening to make an appearance here this weekend and I need a wee V4 fix.
Cheers for any (helpful) advice.
John.

[abrmoto]

What oil are you using?

[Soupyzrx]

Nothin' fancy, Silkolene Super 4 semi-synth 10-40 multigrade.

[abrmoto]

I had problems with Silkolene doing same thing, 2 race starts and clutch was fooked. Changed to Motul 5100 10-40 and never had a isse again clutches last 3 seasons!! Always use genuine honda plates as well, dearer but worth it in long run. May not be your issue but sounds all to familiar.

[gavins]

I wouldn't use Super 4 in an NC30, Comp 4 as a minimum and Pro 4 as a preference.

[abrmoto]

Fully synthetic will shag your clutch, should only use Semi in RVF or VFR motor.

[gavins]

I've always used Pro 4 in both Race and Road NC30's, never had any issues.

[Neosophist]

I wouldn't use Super 4 in an NC30, Comp 4 as a minimum and Pro 4 as a preference.

based on what exactly?

this is an 80s bike designed originally for 91 fuel and 10/40 or 20/50 semi syth oil.



I used Honda G2 oil in my bike, 10/40 semi-synth, not sure if you can get 20/50 anymore.

As long as the oil meets the required criteria (which pretty much all modern oils do) the only advantage a fully synthetic oil is going to give you is a longer interval before changing as it breaks down slower due to the synthetic esters.

The beware points are to always use an oil that is suitable for wet clutch motorcycles.

Some oils are have cleaning agents in them, others have molygrease and other friction modifiers to increase mpg, which work wonderful on scooters and other things without a wet clutch but will cause a wet clutch to slip like crazy.

Oils not suitable for motorcycles often break down much quicker as the gearbox of a motorcycle cuts the oil up quick and the lubrication capactity of the oil drops reall quick, I forget if it was Which? magazine or some other indepenandt tester but they tried a stock 10/40 car oil and it lost most of its rating within 800 miles inside a motorcycle engine.

Easy to get caught up in all the hype of needing a racing oil and having better protecion and all that nonsense, but for most people who are not running some hevily modified 460cc dry clutch racing setup club racing bike stock 10/40 will be fine for even the most spiritied of riders proviidng you change it when its due.

[Soupyzrx]

Okaaaay....Soooooo........?
Remember me? And my stupid questions?

Changing the oil is gonna be the last thing I try cos it is a total pain in the bangle on my bike.
For some reason one of the front downpipes on mine passes directly under the sump drain plug, and it's close enough so that the plug won't unscrew far enough to remove it. So, to drain the oil I have to remove half the bleeding exhaust system!
Pain. In. The. Hole.
I guess I'll have to do something about it, next time I'm changing the oil, but I couldn't face it tonight.
Oh well, I'll chuck it back together and try to set the cable right.
I can tell you are all frantic to know how I get on by the overwhelming flood of replies and advice, lol, so I'll keep you posted.
TTFN.

[Neosophist]

Okaaaay....Soooooo........?
Remember me? And my stupid questions?

Changing the oil is gonna be the last thing I try cos it is a total pain in the bangle on my bike.
For some reason one of the front downpipes on mine passes directly under the sump drain plug, and it's close enough so that the plug won't unscrew far enough to remove it. So, to drain the oil I have to remove half the bleeding exhaust system!
Pain. In. The. Hole.
I guess I'll have to do something about it, next time I'm changing the oil, but I couldn't face it tonight.
Oh well, I'll chuck it back together and try to set the cable right.
I can tell you are all frantic to know how I get on by the overwhelming flood of replies and advice, lol, so I'll keep you posted.
TTFN.

you might actually have to remove all the system, if you just slacken the header bolts on the pipe you might have enough wiggle room to locate it properly so you can get the bolt out.