A few NC30 questions

[bazz]

Hello everyone
Ive got a few NC30 related questions, dont worry i will try and keep it under 100 pages!
Last night the battery died, so this morning after a lot of bump starting i rode it home with the lights off,
cracked out the multimetre, bike fired up fine, tickover lights off 12.9v, a few blips of the throttle brought it to around 14.2v, tickover lights on around 12.2v a few blips of the throttle saw around 13.9v, that seems pretty normal to me so im a bit confused.

Went to check the conection of the reg/rec and found this:



My Dad was the previous owner, he said that the hole was always there, it never bothered him as it didnt affect charging and as he didnt rely on the bike for transport and didnt bother changing it as it seemed to work.
A quick google of the numbers says that its a cbr600 one?
if this is the case would the wiring have had to been modified to accept it?
Apart from the conection to the unit what else should i be checking/servicing/modifying?

While i had the tailpiece off i found this handywork underneath, my dad bought a new subframe as he assumed that there was a part missing from the old one as there is nowhere for the seat posts to locate, this new one appears the same as the old one, where are the seat posts supposed to locate to?







Lastly...
Is this an expensive boxed resistor to achive ultimate speed?



Sorry about the illustrated essay and if this has been covered elsewhere, any help is much appreciated
cheers
bazz

[speedy231278]

Bin the reg/rec. The only sensible explanation for it looking like that is it overheating. It's not got fins either, so if it hasn't destroyed itself, it's only a matter of time. 12.2V on tickover with the lights on is probably a tiny bit low. Define a quick blip of the throttle? Usual test is at 5K revs. If it's chucking out over 15.5V at that point, you're cooking the battery. There are loads of threads on here about charging issues, and also in the docs section there's a basic checklist. I'd search for a relevant thread (there are loads!) and then do a thorough check of it.

[benny]

They don't locate anywhere (if you're talking about the inner two) the seat just rests in the sub frame. The outer two just screw into lugs on the seat unit, which in yours looks like it's been bodged on :)

[magg]

The battery is obviously flat and although the charging system is working the output is too low to stop battery discharge at low engine speed. Do you do a lot of stop start riding with lights on? Below are the voltages expected from a fully functional charging system that connects directly to the battery.

Idle:

No lights 14.0 volts
Low beam 13.3 volts ( expect 13.0 volts with 55/60 watt headlight)
High Beam 12.7 volts

RPM to achieve 14.6 volts:

No lights 2000
Low Beam 2500 (expect 3000 with 55/60 watt headlights)
High beam 3500

[jo]

The riders seat doesn't bolt to the subframe, it bolts to the seat unit.

[bazz]

Thanks for all the advice guys, it is very much appreciated, unfortunately i have not had chance to touch the bike but when i do i will report back, is the reg/rec the same or similar to an rvf one? i have one that came spare with another bike but havnt had chance to compare
bazz

[NGneer]

As per previous answers regarding the reg/Rec and the riders seat and for your last question….Yes that is a M-max de-resrtictor that just plugs inline from the ECU (Big black box) at the back of the tail unit to remove the Japanese imposed speed limiter.

Plug it back in and enjoy

[bazz]

Hi guys
been ill and off work last week so havnt been able to do much, but whilst ive been in bed iv been reading threads on the charging system, left the house for the first time in 5 days on friday and managed an hour or so in the garage.
The connections for the reg/rec were very corroded, the battery earth too and so were the 3 pin ones for the generator, all cleaned with brush, switch cleaner and then vasoline applied, checked the resistance for the generator and it was between about 0.4 and 0.6 ohms, cleaned the connections on the reg/rec to do another check to see if it was defo nackered, one of the pins fell out of it...
yet to fit new one as had to go back in (head was spinning), was thinking before i did of making a direct connection between the reg/rec and the battery as per some of the threads i was reading, just to make sure, am i cutting the positive and negative coming out of the reg/ rec and connecting them to the pos/neg on the battery terminals via a 30amp inline fuse? is this a worthwhile mod?
cheers
bazz

[bazz]

Hello all
By the time I had recovered the roads had been salted so I took the nc to my workshop and tucked it away for hibernation/fettling and switched to the winter transport.
During this time I changed the reg/rec over for the new one that came with my rvf project, did the valve clearences and jetted the carbs to roughly suite the full system, a massive thank you to Viper_biker and Cammo respectively for their guides.
Money and time resulted in me not having the bike back together until late last Thursday/Friday morning, took it for a late night test, felt like a completely different engine, it wasn't at already bad before but pulls clean and strong from tick over to red line now and I am very pleased with the result of my work.
The bike started fine the next day, ran a few errands, stop start with around 10 miles between stopping and setting off again, lights on while riding, not a problem starting each time, last stop was a couple of miles from home, when I returned home I decided to crack the multimeter out and see how the charging system was getting on, left it ticking while I grabbed the multimeter, key out to unlock seat, back in, click, dead.
So anyway new reg/rec and I removed the battery from the rvf project when I bought it which has been kept in the house and has been regularly charged as has the old one, both batteries hold a 12.90-12.98 voltage after charging and then left for a couple of days, which my research tells me those are healthy figures.
My local garage kindly load tested both for me and they both showed up good/weak but the mechanic said that the tester was for car batteries so they should be up to the job and that shouldnt be my problem.
So I fitted a voltmeter to the dash to see what was going on while in motion.
So key off voltmeter is reading 12.9, key on no change, start up voltage drops then rises steadily eventually reaching 14.4-14.6, riding lights off I'm seeing 14.4-14.8 usually levelling out around 14.6, sidelights around 14.2.
As soon as I touch the headlights the voltage drops dramatically around 12.8 low beam 12.5 high beam, just got home and with high beam on voltage dropped to 11.9/12, oddly revs seemed to make little or no difference to volts on low, certainly no difference on high.
I have checked the headlight bulbs to see if they had ridiculous watt bulbs in and found the standard jap 35/60w ones in there.
So from reading around I have two ideas, short in the wiring or failing generator, does this sound like the right line of investigation? I have checked the resistance between the three yellow wires and the results were in spec, is there a way to check the voltage output from the generator? What sort of output should I be getting?
Sorry for the huge essay, I always think it's best to see the whole picture.
Cheers
bazz