NC30 Carb float bowl screw

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Luke86
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NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Luke86 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:07 am

So i decided to take the carbs on my NC30 bits, since fitting the zorst, the flat spot in the mid-range got more noticeable, and the bike idled a bit uncomfortably at times.

So using Cammo's carb guide (Cammo you're a legend, that guide is wicked good :plus: ), i started to strip them down (my first time), all was going well, and i got the carbs off. First float bowl screw i touched got minced, metal was soft. After a lot of swearing and a hammer i got it off though. happily proceeded to rejet/clean.

Got to the last carb, number 1, and the bottom float bowl screw is a bitch to get to. With the throttle spinny thingy (technical term) in the way, and the choke cable cast boss from carb 3 obstructing, I can't get a proper hit on the screw, and i'm cautious of going in guns blazing and mincing the screw - hope this makes sense, i'm a bit delirious after sniffing fumes for the last couple hours.

any bits of advice you chaps got? gonna get some grips on it and see if that works (thanks for the tip DM ;) ) but wanted to see if there is a trick to it i'm missing.

cheers

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Drunkn Munky
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Re: NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Drunkn Munky » Sun Jul 13, 2014 7:28 am

The trick is a allen head replacement screw set from rick so I dont have any hassle when taking them apart again ;)

Luke86
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Re: NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Luke86 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:22 pm

Again?! You got serious thrill issues man! ;)

Managed to use the grips to get it out, but it doesn't look pretty. Probably worth ordering some of those screws from Rick O rather than using some OEM replacement ones from your good self?

Neosophist
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Re: NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Neosophist » Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:01 pm

Luke86 wrote: metal was soft.

wanted to see if there is a trick to it i'm missing.

cheers
The metal isn't soft. The problem is your using the wrong screwdriver.

You will notice the screws have a dot stamped in them, that means they are JIS standard. If you use a proper JIS screwdriver you won't strip the screws.

If you use a philip head screwdriver it will slip out at high torque and strip the head.

Using a proper JIS #2 screwdrive you can remove the screws and torque them up tight without any issues.

Most people outside of Japan seem to think the screws are soft after chewing them up and fit allen head screws.
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Luke86
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Re: NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Luke86 » Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:26 pm

Neo - if I'm honest, I never knew that, I was aware that there were some differences in things like this, but didn't know it extended to this. Thanks for the info, you're right, it was at high torque they gave way. Perhaps worth investing in a JIS screwdriver set?

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Drunkn Munky
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Re: NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Drunkn Munky » Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:27 pm

The trouble is these days its rare to come across carbs that havent been attacked with a philips so even with a jis driver you can run into trouble

Neosophist
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Re: NC30 Carb float bowl screw

Post by Neosophist » Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:23 pm

Yep if you find screws that haven't been ruined.

A good highquality JIS#2 works wonders, I have the proper screws in all my carbs and they are not marked at all, even though I thought I'd break the float bowl unscrewing the one it was so tight.

Since the carbs is the only thing that is likely to strip you might just be better using allen key screws.

IF you have the original tooklit, the screwdriver that comes with that is JIS. The handle isn't great but it will get your carb screws outno trouble.
xivlia wrote:i dont go fast on this bike so really do not need a rear brake.. /
vic-vtrvfr wrote:Ask xivlia for help, he's tackled just about every problem u could think of...

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