Temperature gauge needle calibration?

[alexandervf]

Good evening everyone,

After successfully replacing the gauge dials (of an RVF400), i seem to be stuck with the temperature gauge needle.

If i push it with my finger from "cold point" to "hot point" it will not return by itself to "cold point". I have to push it again with my finger back to "cold point".

What am i doing wrong??

Does anyone know if i have to perform some sort of calibration to the temp gauge in order for it to work correctly?

Do i have to calibrate also the other two gauges too?

Thanks in advance

[Cammo]

What gauges are you using?

[alexandervf]

What gauges are you using?

....What do you mean "what gauges" ?

The original gauges the RVF has...(if i understand correctly your question).

The gauges worked fine.

I just replaced the face plates.

[Cammo]

Now I understand - you've removed the temperature gauge needle to change the face.

I imagine that when the needle is at rest, it may have been under some tension. If so, you won't know where the correct spot is to put the needle back on.

Yes, you will need to recalibrate! This may not be so easy as there isn't any numbers on the gauge, From memory the red zone indicates about 105C, but not a great idea to let it get to that zone for long.

I seem to recall that others have run into this same issue when changing the temp gauge face to an aftermarket face.

[Ben_OB1]

Just pop the temperature sender into a pot of boiling water 100°C (212°F for you imperial types). With the gauge connected the rotary shaft should be in the position corresponding to the beginning of the red zone. Align your needle to that position and secure it onto the shaft. Simples!

This is assuming you live somewhere around sea level... if you were in Denver, Colorado for example, water would be boiling at lower temp, more like 95°C.

Ben.

PS> Why did you change the clock faces? Photos of before and after??!!!??

[alexandervf]

Now I understand - you've removed the temperature gauge needle to change the face.

I imagine that when the needle is at rest, it may have been under some tension. If so, you won't know where the correct spot is to put the needle back on.

Yes, you will need to recalibrate! This may not be so easy as there isn't any numbers on the gauge, From memory the red zone indicates about 105C, but not a great idea to let it get to that zone for long.

I seem to recall that others have run into this same issue when changing the temp gauge face to an aftermarket face.

Yes cammo you are spot on, forgive me, i haven't been explenatory enough.

I have read also somewhere that another way to recalibrate is when you hear the rad fan kicking in.

What also is bothering me is that, even if i set the needle at the red zone (by hand), it won't return to its starting position.

Just pop the temperature sender into a pot of boiling water 100°C (212°F for you imperial types). With the gauge connected the rotary shaft should be in the position corresponding to the beginning of the red zone. Align your needle to that position and secure it onto the shaft. Simples!

This is assuming you live somewhere around sea level... if you were in Denver, Colorado for example, water would be boiling at lower temp, more like 95°C.

Ben.

PS> Why did you change the clock faces? Photos of before and after??!!!??

Thats a good idea ben, but as i replied to cammo, how will the needle return to its starting position?

Temp sender and boiling water is what i will try. I guess the the gauge will have to be powered in order for the coil to start working as a magnet and move the needle.

I changed them because i messed up with the previous ones. I sprayed the previous ones with clear varnish in order to revive them a bit. As a result the varnish disolved the surface of the face plates, not entirely, but very noticably.

So, i replaced the face plates out of a cbr400 nc29.

Thanks both of you for your replies. Any more ideas are very welcome.

[johnnie5]

Just pop the temperature sender into a pot of boiling water 100°C (212°F for you imperial types). With the gauge connected the rotary shaft should be in the position corresponding to the beginning of the red zone. Align your needle to that position and secure it onto the shaft. Simples!

This is assuming you live somewhere around sea level... if you were in Denver, Colorado for example, water would be boiling at lower temp, more like 95°C.

Ben.

PS> Why did you change the clock faces? Photos of before and after??!!!??

i think you will also need a ground feed to the sendor ???

[Neosophist]

If you follow the adcive above.

Meter wires up to 12v and sender conneted but in a pan of boiling water not the rad (probably have to make up a temp loom) remove the needle.

The meter will still turn the spindle even without the needle, simply stick the needle back on after about 5 mins in the boiling water to give it time to be at the right place.. when it cools the spindle will turn back and hit the stop, there will still be some pre-tension to keep it down to zero.

troublesome to remove needles and loose calibration, last time i tried i binned that set, done a set since but its a pain in the arse job

[NGneer]

troublesome to remove needles and loose calibration, last time i tried i binned that set, done a set since but its a pain in the arse job

I changed all the dial faces once for some pimpy white ones but couldn't ever get the Temp gauge to work properly afterwards.

The Speedo and Rev counter needles came of whith moderate persuasion but I remember the Temp gauge needle felt like you were breaking something just to remove it. Like Neo I ended up binning it in the end

[alexandervf]

Ouch....oooo dear me

I will definitely give it a try, to bin it, it does not sound like an option...Budget has already hit "middle earth"...so IT WILL work.

Thank you all guys