1994 NC35 bogging below 7000rpm

[Cammo]

As long as its done properly and from what i'm seeing it's pretty well hit and miss unless you know where to go.

It certainly is.

If you don't need to rush the job then you shouldn't have any worries doing the work yourself. Just ask questions on here when you need any info.

[RoninZX-10R]

Yep, this is definitely the best place for info as a majority of guys on here are from the UK where the 400's are a lot more popular. You rarely see many 400's on the road in Australia, but there's quite a few of us racing them...and crashing them, so there's places like RB's who have a lot of the spares you'll need.

The good thing about the old Honda's (I've only had VFR's and RVF's so can't speak about the Kwaka's and Yamaha's) is they were built like brick sh*thouses so they'll last forever as long as you do regular oil changes and check valve clearances when they're scheduled. I've got some racing buddies who will not even touch the engine all season long, except for oil changes, and they don't have any issues, so they're good engines to use.

Regarding performance increases, the standard muffler is very well baffled (weighs a lot!) and restrictive. I changed my entire system to a stainless steel Tyga system. Very lightweight and free flowing. It might be a bit loud for the road, up to you? Because mine's a racebike I removed the airbox and run with an open carb set-up, not so good if there's dust in the air though. That's pretty much all I've done on the engine side of things (I race in the standard class so we're pretty limited with what we're allowed to do). But I would get the suspension serviced and set-up for your weight first and make sure she handles like it's on rails before worrying too much about power. If you want suspension set-up give Trevor Manly a call, he knows what works with our bikes and will get it handling like a modern bike.

[Weasal]

I would get the suspension serviced and set-up for your weight first and make sure she handles like it's on rails before worrying too much about power.

The suspension was done just before xmas by ProMechA in springvale, now in Mulgrave North and is a heap better than what it was. Can't remember what was done but it was about a grand for front and rear and he weighed me e.t.c. New spring on the back, shocks and forks serviced, valved, or whatever they do. Mind you it feels good to someone who has never ridden road bikes before and remember ive been riding this around like this for a year thinking it may have been normal.

[racingt]

Hiya, I had same problem on mine. Switched the main jets, and a 1mill shim under the needles cured most of the problem. The rest I can live with.
Pulling carbs off, rejecting and shimming is easy enough provided you give yourself 2 or 3 hours. Rick Oliver can send you new jets & shims. Total cost prob £15!

Pm if you want me to find jet sizes. From memory, I think 110s.
Cheers
Phil

[racingt]

Just checked, I upped the main jets from 108 to 110, and fitted 0.5mil shims under the needles ( which lifted them).
Bike runs really well, now. Also fitted a carb Allen kept set, cos those screws get wrecked pretty easily, and set float heights, which is a 15 minute job. Much easier to do than I expected.
Phil

[Weasal]

Finally got some time to check some things out today and this is what i've found. The plugs are NGK ER9EH and look o.k. The front two gaps were probably around .7 and the rear .6 The needles are the same in all 4 carbs and are J8VA with one washer approx .5mm on each. The air box and filter look stock as with the pipes (to me) but it is an aftermarket muffler but has not branding or writing on it. The rear sprocket is an ISA Lightweight with 37 teeth.

I will still organise new carbie gaskets, plugs, filter e.t.c. to check the rest of the carbie properly in the future but i have a few questions.

Cammo's DIY guide shows drilling the outside hole a little larger. Can this be done with the NC35 as the slide is different and are those needles the correct ones?

Cheers, Mick